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Grease those o-rings a touch before you reinstall them, as well. Just a thin layer. They'll slide in nice and easy that way. Oh yeah, and put that clamp back up on that coolant line in pic one.

Sorry it took me a while to answer this, I missed your question. The answer required for that question is, honestly, beyond me. The technical reasons aren't known to me, as I'm not really an expert. I've wondered what anealling was myself, and went and looked it up. Found the same answer...

There should be a gasket between the master cylinder and booster, usually. LINK part # 47275. If you go back and follow the link to the booster, there's a part number for the boot, as well. You might want to make sure that the booster isn't full of brake fluid, as well. I've seen master...

Yeah, I know; I was hoping that a more detailed description would, be more helpful to the OP, and future readers. I was also hoping to refute the 5 to 10 lbs at a time theory, which would take all day for a half hour job, and isn't necessary. No offense :) Edit: aluminum is soft, but...

You need to find a shop with a smoke machine, and smoke the vacuum system. It's a great way of finding leaks.

Napa will clean and flow test injectors at $40 each, iirc. I should have put that in my original post, sorry.

Most manufacturer's torque specs use 15 to 25 ft. lbs between passes, with an initial pass from 20 to 30. I.E.: The 3.1 v-6 Chevy I did last week was 22, 35, 55, then 55 again. Loosen one turn(bolt sequence in reverse), then tighten to 22, then 90 degrees(1/4 turn). I'd probably start at...

Do you have an exhaust leak as well?

^^ I lol'd pretty hard at that. Thanks for the links and info.

As long as the threads in the block have been thoroughly cleaned, and all of the bolt holes in the head are clean and clear of debris, I don't see what the difference would be installing them with the head on or off. I did find this: http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html In the stud...

What brand plug wires are you using, and how old are they? Sometimes its the easy stuff that gets you.

Unless you're rewire is wrong, and causing a draw on the battery, I doubt it had any effect on your original problem. No, I can't say positively that your bypass is the reason for a code 43, as I haven't done the research required. I can positively say that if you think the switch is bad, you...

Cool. I'm using a thermatic temp. switch currently. The bulb is in the radiator, up in the top left corner. I set it according to operating temps. taken with an i.r. temp gun. It comes on around 205 deg. at the back of the head, and goes off around 190. I used the temps. at the back of the...

Trans swap isn't a big deal. I'd say $250, depending on your area. I'd get the flywheel resurfaced, and check/replace the clutch and pressure plate while your there. As far as what it would cost to fix the problem if its not trans. related, no clue. Don't know what the problem is. I've...

Were those eight people transmission techs, or just random wanna-be's? I'd say get it in a trans. shop, get second fixed, and go from there. Could be almost anything from a seized caliper with a warped rotor, seized wheel bearings, to broken teeth from the synchro/gear randomly catching in the...

Check the ground. There's one on the passenger side by the afm, where the harness comes through the fender well. Hope it's that easy :)

I don't know, I have the XTD in my n/a, and other than the annoying squall when first engaging the clutch, it's held up well. That clutch looks better built, but it would be nice to have some input from someone who can test it.

You're probably cocking it a tiny bit as you get to the end. Give it a wiggle while still pulling, and it'll come out. Could also be the seal is doing its job correctly, and you're getting a bit of vacuum or suction working against you. As far as the leak, Weezl covered it well. I'll...

That's why I had to rewire the clutch switch. I don't recall having to do anything else for the car to start, though. I'll have to look into that, thanks.

I doubt this could be the problem, but the tach. is different between the turbo and n/a. I have this pic to show the differences, and how to change the n/a tach. for a turbo swap. You could probably do it the opposite way, or just swap in your n/a gauges. As far as the problem at...