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I've had dirt/debris stuck in my eye. It didn't bother me much, but swelled up nicely over a few days. Eye doc removed the debris, and everything went back to normal. Don't mess around when it comes to your eyes. Blind isn't something easy to recover from...

I think maybe you have them backwards. Did you just pull it and put in new bearings, or did you have it checked at a machine shop to make sure everything is straight? Sounds like you should have...

Those seem like good reasons to pull the head to me. Yeah, he could have done a block test to be positive, but it's pretty certain. 88: was that supposed to be water in the oil? Oil in the water usually points to a different problem.

It could be the cam seals behind the back timing cover bolted to the head. Did you put new ones in? They can be kind of tricky to install, and easy to mess up. Put some leak detection dye in the oil. It'll make it easy to trace the leak. You can get it at any parts store.

EGR cooler is back there, but I don't recall if it has coolant running thru there. Could be where the heater hose nipple goes on the back of the head as well. You could get it up on stands, undo the trans. cross member, lower the trans, and look up there with a flash light. Put some dye in...

He has the Walbro pump, and, as far as I know, its not meant to be run at 9 volts. I was concerned that it would either burn out the pump or the resistor. His fuel pressure was reading closer to 65 psi. without the resistor, and dropped to around 45psi. with the resistor. TSRM indicates 38-44...

Make sure you use a good quality A/C system flush, as well. Getting to the expansion valve is a pita, but we charge by the book, and fix accordingly. In my experience, the customer usually wants to cheap out, and only do a flush and compressor, against our advise. I don't mind, though, as...

Especially the way I drive... I should try to tweak the timing a bit, and see if I can run 87 again. It would be a little easier on the wallet right now...

The header was my last "bolt-on" engine upgrade. I already had the intake and exhaust done. I wasn't getting a bad knock, just a light ping under WOT. That was in the summer here. 95+ degree days, with high humidity levels. I just bumped up to 89 octane(instead of 87), and set my timing...

$400 for the timing belt job is good if they replace the cam seals, crank seal, and oil pump seal while they're there(You don't have to remove the head to do this). Also do the water pump and thermostat, since the w.p. is right there, and they have to remove the t.stat housing to get the front...

OBX header, test pipe, 2.5" piping, Magnaflow 24" glasspack in stock resonator location, 2 chamber FlowMaster out back. Deep, and quiet at idle, screams at WOT, with a real nice tone. No droning in any rpm range, and just loud enough to hear at cruising speeds.

I don't have any problems off the line. I ran an 88 GT Mustang(all stock) off the lights a while ago, and took her. Pulled half a car on her and stayed there thru first, pulled another half into second, and walked as she tried to wrap her ruststain out as high as my car(I shift at 6200)...

I had the same issue, but couldn't remove the header and be without the car for a couple days. Wound up coating the intake instead ;)

That's the cheap replacement throw out bearing assembly from local auto parts. They give out quick, and tend to squeak. They also don't sit quite right on the oem pressure plate. O'Rielly's can get the stock replacement bearing that IJ suggests.

The center hub of the clutch disk could probably fit in the center of the flywheel. It's not impossible. There's a few different possibilities. Try bleeding it, and see what happens. Pull the fork boot at the bell housing, and look in there with a flashlight and a mirror. See how everything...

ICB: Around $100 each from A.Z.

If the p.p is for a turbo model, it won't work on the W-58. If its the n/a model p.p., the clutch plate is in backwards(wouldn't be the first time someone's done this, including me...). The flat face should face the flywheel, while the side with the springs should be inside the pressure plate...

Trans. mount, engine mounts, carrier bearing, loose pinion nut, worn bushings. Just get it up on the lift, and check everything. I'd start with the trans. mount and carrier bearing.

You'll need at least two big rolls to go from flange to flange, AJ. I think you'd be better getting them ceramic coated, though. Iirc, the Pacesetter header is mild steel, and tends to rust out under the header wrap. You can get a silver coating, that's shiny, or the gray coating that's on my...

Those don't look like the seats that where in my brother's Conquest. His were fully adjustable(manually, iirc), and were as comfortable as a mkiii seat. Seems they were even built along the same lines as the mkiii seats. Those, however, fit perfectly with that interior.