Search results

Teeth on the synchronizer for second are roughed up a bit. Probably from hard shifting, and grinding it in(clutch not fully disengaged). Pretty common with standards in sports cars for second to be a little abused. It gets the most force applied to it, and is the fastest gear to shift.

Low end does indeed suffer. I'd check for old, cracked vacuum hoses under the intake. Make sure they are all connected correctly, as well.

I forgot: Mark the upper mount location on the body. They sit in there at a particular angle, and need to be installed correctly. I usually put a mark on the body, and a mark on the mount itself, only on one side. You can use masking tape as the marks, as it's easy to remove :)

Not as in depth as JDub's link, but it does a test on a few different after market filters: http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/index.html

Left handed twist drill bits. I keep a set in my tool box. http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/hanson.html

Bilstien's don't like lowering much. I have them, with a set of springs and sleves from TIP Engineering. I can get it down to about 2 1/2" of gap between the tire(245/45/17) and the fender. Handles very nicely, though :naughty:

From what I understand, the turbo block has oil squirters, 2 knock sensor locations, and and the n/a doesn't. Odd thing is, I pulled this block from my 86.5 n/a. As far as I know, it had the original engine in it. I bought it from the original owner's family. Here's some pics:

Denatured alcohol in a spray bottle. Spray it on, let it sit for a minute, and wipe it off. Ammonia should work as well.

For the front, remove the little bolt that holds the brake line bracket to the spindle, then remove the long bolt that holds the upper control arm to the frame. Swing the control arm out of the way. That bolt has to go behind the plastic inner fender well, and can be a pain sometimes. Little...

Bilstein struts(sport replacements from A.Z.), and Hypercoil springs and sleeves from TIP Engineering. Front: 600 in. lbs. Rear: 300 in. lbs. Just installed them today, have to do some fine tuning tomorrow, and get it aligned Monday. Firm ride now, and the car seems to stay flatter through...

Search "electric fans," and pay attention to posts on that topic from SupraCentral. Search "fan clutch," and look for posts by Jetjock. The operating temperature for this engine is basically the same as any other fuel injected engine. If you don't know what it is, you might not want to...

One day someone's gonna fry an ECU this way... Masking tape and pens are cheap, and you can make excellent labels with them...

Used motors are not a good way to go. You don't know how it was maintained, how badly it was beat on, or anything else. Rebuild will cost a bit more, but be well worth it in the long run. Check everything. All the bearing tolerances, bore size, etc. If its all within spec., you could get...

I'd really like a 1" raised cowl, with the reversed vent, like on the red car in the link above.

Can't forget valve train. Dual springs, titanium retainers and seats, etc. Might want to port and polish the head while you're there...

check the fuses in the kick panel

First, I'd check belt tension as AJ stated. Second, I'd check the water pump. There is a weep hole on the top of the housing, just behind the shaft where the fan and pulley bolts up. Also, I'd remove the belts, and spin all the pulleys(engine off), to make sure they all turn smoothly...

A few different vehicle manufacturers have used the tubular intake design. A good example would be the late model Corolla S. Pop the hood at the dealer, and take a look. The Quad 4 was quite popular. You can find them in Grand Am's, Achievas, Cavaliers, etc., from around 88, to around 98...

Yeah, I guess I have.... :)