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http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=151 Next you'll be asking where JB #1 set bolt is. Not that I think a bad ground has anything to do with your troubles but you could always supply one and see what happens.

On second thought, no...

Unlike some I refuse to make the effort ;)

If that thing doesn't come apart within a year it'll for sure start flaking. I can tell just by looking at it.

Ugh. Minivans and eco-nazi cars. The scourge of the highway. I'd be seriously embarrassed to be seen in that thing Monsewer. Then again since I own a DMC 12 I have no right saying that. Otherwise it's the G37 Coupe or the bike (Vulcan) when it strikes me...

A meter with min/max on each trigger while jiggling/moving stuff usually works. The lazier way is a low current fuse on each trigger or one trigger at a time if you're willing to wait. Can't get more cheaper and effective than that.

Restrictive filter?

^ Wise words Alex. I've pointed out in the past why that kit is a poor choice.

It's not a car for the mechanically disinclined either...

Something is wrong. There's no way "resetting" could cause that.

Nope, can't be used on 0-5 volts. NB is 0-1 vdc. That said all one has to do is measure OX or VF (in diag mode when off idle) to see what the mixture is doing.

Crack me up. There may yet be hope for this place...

The regulator keeps the delta P constant. It's as simple as that.

Yep, that's it. I understand something as complex as a single pole switch can be baffling but that wasn't so hard now was it? You're welcome btw...

It was a joke. I'm so misunderstood around here...

Probably because many people try and modify the EFI system without a clue how it works...

It's the 22. Fix it. Means the coolant temp signal is either open (above 4.8 volts) or shorted (below 100 mv). Could be sensor or wiring. Simple enough to use a meter and pinpoint which. You're simple enough right?

Colors? Whatever ones are connected to pins 1 and 2. Looks like B-R and V: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=114 See the "A" next to the connector? Go to the pages following the schematics...

Ironic since Toyota designed that setup to be fail safe. You're right, you don't understand how it works. Both the FPR and three way solenoid valves. Lucky you didn't toast your engine...

Don't see why not. Use pins 1 and 2. Will be closed in Sport