The integral feedback pot is worn causing the system to chatter in open loop. Good luck with that. The servo is around $500 and may not even be available. Plus the job requires dash removal.
I can ride fine. With what was a leg busted in three places along with a badly compressed ankle it's the walking any distance part that's a little tough. It would have killed an ordinary man :icon_razz
Thanks Jon. I knew about the diode but been so long I wasn't sure how it's connected. Not near my books. Truth is I thought it didn't isolate E1. Ah well. Kind of hard to believe he'd miss those wires but we'll see.
By prime I meant supplying an alternate source of fuel using ether, the cold start injector, or just injecting it into the induction system. As for codes, not sure if serious. I thought you had manuals?
That's a crap load of text without saying much about basic troubleshooting. Spark? Fuel? Will it run if primed? Assuming a stock ECU codes are easy to check even if the diag box is missing. Still sounds like valve and/or ignition timing though. As for what the stock configuration looks like...
Again, if the check engine light does not come on when the key is switched on (past accessory but before the start position) odds are the ECU is not receiving power. That can be caused by the IGN fuse or EFI fuse, among other things.
The radio has nothing to do with the 7.5 ING fuse. It does have something to do with the 7.5 Radio fuse though. Neither have anything to do with cranking. Since we're apparently supposed to guess what "I can't get any diag codes to work" means I'll give it a shot: if the MIL doesn't come on with...
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