Other than 3p, so much fail. I'd offer my two kopecks but I don't do threads where the OP cries about a broken car with known codes. Codes he can't even get right...
Can't wait till he's here crying the thing doesn't run right. A fine example of the dreaded "previous owner" in the making. Course, he'll never sell...
I've explained it in detail before but put simply, whether it's loose sensors, faulty sensors, or bad wiring the *only* condition that sets code 52 is the ECU not sampling routine ignition events during the time it's expecting them. Period.
Wise words about pinpointing the leak before pulling stuff apart. An inspection mirror works too. Fwiw I always keep dye in my coolings systems. AutoZone carries a good one. Between that and a pressure tester leak sourcing is a cake walk. Corrosion can be kept to a minimum with proper cooling...
Have you tried online dealers? There's always used fittings but a replacement shouldn't be difficult to source. I would identify the leak source before continuing to swap parts willy-nilly though. You were right to go with those clamps. Also, make sure that heat shield at the end of the hard...
Which is what I was getting at earlier. And for the record I'm not pro-environment as much as I am anti-punk. From street racing on down I'm sick of children in adult bodies who think only about themselves.
Stupid? I accurately answered his question. Whether he'll accept it or not is a different story.
I just know I'm done arguing. As much as it pains me to trot out a tired old cliche I've forgotten more about this stuff than he'll ever know...
Post hoc ergo propter hoc. At least for the 52. The 24 and 31 should be obvious. And these engines don't have a MAF.
I'm done. Not going to argue with that serious a case of Dunning Kruger. I suggest reading more and posting less.
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