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^ Oh now that makes way too much sense. In fact, try another gage.

As far as the +B and FP thing goes all you have to do is RTFM. In fact you ought to just sit down and read it until your eyes pop out. You'll be a lot better off.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/part.aspx?S=85964 I wouldn't be buying anything before knowing for sure that was the problem...

Crack me up...

It's an indication you ought not to be messing with things you don't understand. Check the timing...

So much fail. Again, see post #16. I won't even get into the emissions thing, sad as it is. 15-20%? Come on Monsewer. Don't make me come over there and demand your surrender. What's amusing about all this is some of you apparently forget this stuff and a whole lot more has been studied to...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=15 IR#2 is what does the deed.

It's like déjà vu all over again...

^ Wise words. OP: Here's the wiring. See the AFM and the pin numbers? 1-4? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=49 See the connector designation (c) next to it in the little circle? A few pages further shows that connector...

Yeah, his kind is the among the more difficult to help. Reminds me of the idiom "when you earnestly believe you can compensate for a lack of skill by doubling your efforts, there's no end to what you can't do." At least I know when I'm being a dick...

It may be (likely is) just the stem seals. The guides can be checked (indicated) when replacing the seals which can be done with the head on.

I'm confused. Why not just wire it like the TEWD shows?

Meh, in a year that stuff will be half the price and twice as nice.

Yes, when cranking and after the engine starts of course. Not with the key on/engine off though. The intent is to help prevent fire after a collision.

Like the OP you should be looking at the schematic. There shouldn't be any power at the fuel pump with the key on.

If you have no spark simply focus on that. Since you apparently have crank angle and rpm pulses along with injection just start at the ECU and signal trace the ignition system outward. What's so hard about that? And make sure the igniter is grounded.

Thanks. Good luck with yours...

I see. So it's my fault. The only thing you're right about is that you indeed don't get it. All that you wrote is proof. Try reading my posts again. That said I'll give you a final piece of advice: stop making everything so complicated.

21 can be caused by other things but the heater circuit should be checked first. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=48 There are 3 wires on the O2 sensor. Two will be the same color, usually black. They're for the heater. Since the O2 sensor doesn't work...

jetdick? Never? Perhaps that's why you're unable to repair such a simple problem. That and your atrocious diagnostic approach based on no understanding of how the system actually works. Anyway, I was just going by your previous posts about fuel pressure, running rich, bad idle, etc. If you've...