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What he said. You could always pressurize the thing to see what happens. Simply disconnect the far end of the hose and roll it up.

More pie!

Hopefully is it an arm and a leg. That way you'll learn not to swap shit out based on who knows what.

Yeah, that's got to be it. Swap it and see. Makes sure you buy a new one from Toyota.

My suggestion would be to buy the correct TSRM for your model year because it's in that book although it sounds like you have a 22.

Still, you'd think between all the 11 threads and the info on Cygnus they'd know about it. OP: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx There should never be confusion about how to read codes...

Guys who have been here over 5 years have never heard of code 11? How is that possible?

Lol, feel better? At least I went to high school. Ah well, on the list you go. Have a nice life! :icon_bigg

OK, so I was a little generous on the competent part. Appears more study is needed :)

A Darlington Jon? Really?

Little welding there eh? Is that a plug? And why is it on the driver's side?

For some reason? You really ought to forget resistance and do drop testing on low voltage high current circuits. And buy a decent meter for cryin' out loud. You seem plenty competent. No excuse for someone like that not to own quality test gear :)

Oui monsieur. Perhaps you're familiar with the exhaust stove, plumbing, and thermostatically controlled damper and/or heat riser valve found on older engines. Same deal. Also, air exiting the TB expands (and thus cools) as it enters the larger plenum. Think expansion valve in an AC system...

That's brilliant. Thank you. So a guy who set his system up to prime is unable to fix what's now wrong. Or the odds favor a PO doing it over the car being stock. Got it. Lol. Indeed. When are we going to learn? The threads worth getting involved in become fewer by the day. OP: Find someone...

To me it's not a solution. Not doing anything the ECU isn't already and does little to pinpoint the actual fault. It's good geek though :)

^ This. OEM hoses are good for at least 100k miles. I'll never understand why people take stuff off the car rather than maintain it properly. Heck, in my case I added hoses to the area in question. Never had a problem. If you want to worry about something worry about the little cap on the pax...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Media/Supra/TechTips/coolant_flush_1h.gif

Lmao. It may come down to jacking the radiator cap.

An arduino? That's funny. Why not a DMM on Min/Max? Why not simply drop test each side or temporarily run new power and ground (not at the same time of course) to isolate on which side the problem lies?. Once isolated divide in half with the jumper or drop test until the culprit is found...

Who said a picture is worth a thousand words?