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Code 32 on a GTE isn't AFM related.

Actually the TEWD would be better but yes, a check of the triggers would be the correct approach. Also yes on the shock sensor. In fact all sorts of stuff can easily be connected to the factory alarm.

No, not obviously.

Then the wiring isn't stock. All the more reason to troubleshoot properly. Now if you meant the car ran for a little bit then of course it will and of course any smoke due to enrichment would disappear. As for the KS you said in post 36 it didn't fix anything (not that 51 is related) but hey...

Crack me up. You're one to talk...

Stop swapping stuff based on very poor diagnostic technique. Neither the fuel pump relay or resistor is at fault. Nor can the engine run with the relay unplugged. If you're going to fixate on the fuel system you should be checking pressure.

Unlike the first test the engine now appears to be in fuel control but the EGR still needs to be looked at and fix the code 41 because an illuminated MIL will result in an instant fail.

Lol. Yeah, easier. At least one of us is dazzled by your technical prowess. Buh-bye!

cRaCk mE uP...

Sigh. You don't have to splice anything. Think about it. Or test with a meter. No splicing there either.

Mmmm....pie :) No scathing comment here. You're on the right track. Not perfect but a whole lot better than the OP. At least you're not over the top Dunning Kruger...

Except odds are it's not the wire. Do as 3p suggested to narrow it down. Or do as I've suggested several times. It'll tell you exactly where the problem is. That said I'm done. Giving up. I tried. Didn't work. Next...

Crack me up. When not competent in something I recommend an approach other than making stuff up then believing it to be true.

I don't get it. A crank/no start is one of the simplest problems to resolve on these cars.

Why rewire when you can just repair? And yes, the ECU connectors are Pulse Lock.

All you did is establish on which side the problem lies. You aren't going to leave it bypassed are you?

I'm confused. Based on your post it appears you think the wire from the fuse box to the alternator is at fault. If so you'd be wrong.

All that does is prove the box is smarter than you are.

R154a? Is that the stuff made in San Francisco from unicorn farts and rainbows? http://tinyurl.com/5ln9ut

Again with the conflicting info. I thought you said before there weren't codes? While they all should be fixed the only one that'll cause your problem is 31. It's always been that way. Stop screwing around and fix it. Measure the signal at the ECU. If it's correct replace the box, although I'll...