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OWW tanked 13% today. A nice gain. Hopefully it'll go down further.

Ya know, all this stuff is harder than a power steering leak...

I'd like to but it's beyond salvaging. Don't think it matters anyway cuz the OP never came back. I'll reiterate a couple of things I've said many times though: 1) A bad ISCV is no different than one that's unplugged. Neither will cause his symptom. 2) Pirate air does not increase idle...

I would sell. Actually, I would crush it. But that's me...

I meant the fitting on the manifold, not the hose. It's an easy access point for spraying starting fluid, carb cleaner, etc if he doesn't want to use fuel but yeah, there are other, slower ways. The ground you mentioned will not prevent spark...

It's used to extract maximum performance from the AC system. In most cars with such valves the setting at which they close is labeled "MAX AC". Supras simply use lowest temp set point instead. With the valve left open my tests showed a loss of 5-10 degrees of AC goodness. YMMV...

The pie line...

Yeah, there would be a code. Next time use some ether, inject a little fuel through the brake booster fitting, or jump the fuel pump on in the diag block for 15 or so seconds before cranking. If it fires right up you'll know which direction to go.

^ What he said. Although the part isn't identical to the Supra valve it works fine. Need to remove the bracket and lever it comes with, flip it over, and install the old lever and bracket. Search around for the Four Seasons p/n or look on Ebay. Why Toymotor doesn't sell the Supra part by itself...

Actually, "turns over" means cranking. Least where I'm from. Anyway, since you imply this happens when cold you could have a CSI problem. May also be a CPS problem that gets fixed when messing with the plugs.

Sounds like you're not all that familiar with EFI in general. SD is the least accurate of all. Your car though...

Meh, I'm with 3p. Loom then wrap with rescue tape in the color of your choice. Done

Not cranking or not starting? Post is confusing Mon...

That's not a part you should buy used. In fact the one you have there isn't far from failing. Buy a new one. Early 90s Corolla or Geo Prizm. Same difference. About $40.

Thread needs to die. Gets more painful by the post...

I'm afraid you're sol...

What is that on the hoses? Tape?

It's the opposite of an in situ translator which is what you have there. And you know that's less accurate metering right? For "an auto tech and not a newb to cars" you have an odd way of troubleshooting.

^ This! More Pi! :)

True, it has the least authority, but open loop defaults to around a lambda of .9 and since best power mixture is richer than stoich he'll gain a bit going in that direction. Fuel economy will suffer as will catalyst efficiency though, since the lambda sensor is the most important emissions...