Personally I'd rather spend the $25 than risk having to redo it again. It's a major PITA to do....$25 is cheap as far as failure insurance goes if you ask me.
Would have been because of this:
http://www.tomshardware.com/news/GoDaddy-DDoS-Anonymous-Own3r-Verisign,17484.html
WHOIS information for cygnusx1.net:***
[Querying whois.verisign-grs.com]
[Redirected to whois.godaddy.com]
[Querying whois.godaddy.com]
[whois.godaddy.com]
If you're taking that all off I'd just try and do the EGR cooler gasket while it's apart. Might make getting some of those nasty to reach bolts a tiny bit easier from one side at least. The gasket shouldn't be more than $25 - $30 at the most from the dealer.
And for what it's worth I'll agree...
If you time the engine without the jumper in place, the ECU is still controlling the timing. Even if you were able to adjust it a bit, that timing isn't necessarily right. Double check and make sure your TDC mark on the crank lines up with the matchmarks on the cams and then move the CPS back...
After you fixed your initial boost leak did you try checking again? Did you use a DIY boost leak tester? Are there any other codes flagged other than 34? Something else is likely going on if it's still cutting that low. Lowest I've seen legitimately cutting is around 10 - 10.5psi and that...
"Sorry pix arent the best but I have limited room in the garage due to being lazy to push out the shell and take better pix."
....yeah, I'll get right on buying your overpriced engine if you can't be motivated enough to get a proper picture >_<
A 5-30 will do just fine. If you want to fully understand what different weights will do in your engine take a look here:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?108-Motor-Oil-Lubricants-amp-Filtration
Start with the motor oil basics sticky, and if you haven't had enough by the end...
I don't think you'll find anyone who's bought a Koyo and been unhappy with it. Yes, they are a bit pricey, but they are worth every penny. The Mishimotos are theoretically a decent alternative minus the fact that they have potential fitment issues. After redesigns with involvement from the MK...
The stock ECU is tuned to run with the EGR. Blocking it off will make you run leaner on cruise and slight load as well as drastically increases your EGT's. It's not advised unless you are running a JDM ECU (didn't have an EGR) or a standalone that's tuned not to have it.
Exhaust stud being...
Felpro gasket is a cardboard one...I used the same one in my rebuild. It lasted about 350 miles and then gave up :(. That gasket is a PITA to change with the engine in the car too.....my big hands and fat fingers got too frustrated (and bloody) so I ended up paying a shop to do it for me.
That sounds like an exhaust leak. It probably makes the noise more when the engine is loaded and your pushing more exhaust through (or exhaust manifold pressure is higher). Check your exhaust studs and make sure they are torqued ok and not just spinning in the head. Also, I haven't read...
That fuel injector could have been causing a large vacuum leak. Also, if it was sounding like a loud hiss, it could be just pouring fuel in as well. You say you doubt it's causing your issues....I say it likely is.
This.....you don't even need a loud exhaust. My Celica's exhaust is pretty darn quiet and people still are hopping at the line >_<. Had some guy in like an 80's sunbird one tire fire off the stop light beside me the other day :nono:
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