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Take accessory belts off one by one when the squeak is there. When it's gone you'll at least know where to be looking. Also make sure all your pulleys are clean and the belts aren't dried up.

Clean the screen and see what happens from there. Could just be slowing down the flow enough at idle that when you bump up the throttle it picks up the slack.

Shhhhhh, you did it to save weight..... ;)

Search for the DIY boost leak tester. It works wonders for finding leaks. Also check to make sure your TPS is calibrated and within specs for code 51.

Fan shroud and under body panels can help a lot more with cooling than most people think. If you're having issues, it WILL make a difference. Whether it's enough I don't know. You're hurting your cooling capacity before you even get started without them in place.

You must have hit those speed bumps really hard....

I'm assuming you have a Lexus AFM in that set of mods as well, correct? Are ther any codes?

The coming back to idle is likely either a boost/vacuum leak. EDIT: Some fast replies in before I was :icon_razz.

All I did was google metric AN adapter and it was the first real result :icon_neut

I don't know the exact thread size you need for our fuel rail but the adapters exist. http://www.summitracing.com/search/Product-Line/Russell-AN-to-Metric-Adapter-Fittings/

Check out the exhausts from BIC performance. I had a 3" version of the their "Thunder" exhaust and loved it. Mine was very loud without the optional resonator and no cat, but that's the way I liked it :D

Short answer is all of them do something that unless you're running a standalone ECU, you shouldn't be changing them. Yes, it can look like a spaghetti mess (especially if they're not router properly), but they're all there for a reason. Why would they put lines in that were not necessary...

Unfortunately if that IS the issue, retorquing it now won't likely help :S When the engine is back down to ambient temperature it should have sucked all the fluid that was pushed out. If there is air in the system that was burped out while driving, the coolant level in the resevoir should be...

That's what I was thinking too, but I wasn't 100% sure. From what I remembered our fuel rails are pretty darn awesome from the factory. Rather than buying one like that if you want to dress it up you can just paint/powder coat/etc the stock one. The clips look right. In reality it's not hard...

If you use the formula Poodles just mentioned and guesstimate the RPM at peak torque it comes out pretty darn close. Don't most dynos by default measure horespower and just use the formula to calculate the torque? There's no reason to try and measure both if you have the other 2 variables of...

Exactly what happened to my first head :(. I was lucky enough to find a bare head from a Cressida off eBay for $120 in AMAZING condition. Got the new head hardness tested and came back good, so I swapped everything over and all was good. I wish I got pictures of my dead head, didn't have a...

I was about to say the same thing. I don't think it looks bad actually.

Before anything else, what are you running for electronics? The Lexus AFM mode won't work with 680s. You'd need to run MAFT Pro or full standalone to be able to use injectors that size. They have made pigtails to adapt the injectors to the stock harness already.

Fill the coolant overflow to the right amount and your light shouldn't come on anymore. Monitor it and look for any drop in coolant. If it does drop, it's going somewhere, whether that be just a hose leaking or a BHG. Unlike some think, coolant doesn't magically disappear or evaporate from...

Quite rare. I think total production for all 1992 was somewhere around 1,200 cars.