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The attempts I saw were done on the inside of the lense.

What makes you think it's not a BHG? White smoke + overheating typically is BHG. Have you pulled the plugs to see if they're washed and/or if there's coolant in the cylinders yet? Compression test? Leakdown test?

Likely modified 89+ lights. I've seen some (failed) attempts to do this sort of thing in the past on here. They were trying to copy this: (As seen in Forza)

I'd be more careful of removing the EGR, it's more than "slightly higher EGT's"... http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?27185-Installed-EGR...Interesting-Effect-on-EGT&highlight=EGR*%20removal You also need to be very aware of any detonation under partial throttle (especially...

If you're going to stay with MK3's I'd stick with the one you've got. As IJ stated, they're all going to have their own problems at this stage in the game and knowing what your issues are is better than walking in to new potentially unknown problems.

I thought that was the case too. I think it's just 89+ moulding, but I believe they are almost the same, just plastics vs. metal in parts of the molding. The metal ones were notorious for being horrible to take off and still have them look nice.

Hah.....my skimming betrays me. Silly me, but on the flip side, it can't be said enough either :icon_razz. I just can't stand it when people are like, "Well, just add boost!" Second most annoying comment is when someone says to just do an engine swap and that will get you what you are looking...

Vacuum at idle at sea level should be right around -20inHG at warm idle at sea level. On decel it can get up to around -25inHG, not high 20's. This may help, a diagram of all vacuum lines on the engine: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Media/Supra/TechTips/vacuum_2h.gif Also, don't forget to check all...

Those spring clips make a bigger difference than most people realize. Make sure those are there.

Make sure your slide pins and pad slide surfaces are all well lubed with brake silicone grease. Make sure you use stuff that's meant for brakes as well, it gets extremely hot in there and you can ignite lubricants that aren't made to be used under such hot conditions. Also, if you have a wheel...

Don't forget all the supporting fuel/electronic changes you'll need to make. In short, you can't just throw on a turbo and call it a day.

Yeah, would be a good candidate for a Honda B series, maybe a Toyota 1ZZ/2ZZ or 4A-GE. There would be lots of potential customers for a small turbo.

Looks nice....I'm interested to see the results. Do you have flow numbers on the head before your work or what a typical stock head flows?

Probably includes the tools (ie. jack and lug wrench)

Right in the description on the link you put up it says that it's good for 250hp. Seeing as stock CT is good for more than that I'd say you're taking a step backwards.

Exactly what I did :). A proper amp makes a HUGE difference. Went from powering off the deck to getting just a small 4x50w (so theoretically the same power) Alpine amp and wow! The sound was much cleaner and crisper, and the crossovers where much easier to work with on the amp to get just...

That's pretty much the way to go. 350whp is beyond what the stock fuel and electronics will allow. And as Supraguy already mentioned, you'll need to have a solid motor before you do this or it's just going to pop something.

I fit in some 5 1/4" Alpine Type-R's in the front and then put some 6x9" Focal's in boxes in the back. The speaker boxes fit perfect pushed to the front of the trunk area when the targa was in (I almost always had the rear seats down). When the targa is bolted in place they were just under the...

Leak down test will show more definitive results even if you have a BHG. This is by far the best option for testing to see if everything inside the cylinder is good, be it valves, rings, or gasket.