Hey Jeff, what is the potential for Toyota do another run of high demand parts. I know they have done it for the MKIV crowd. Are the molds still around, or does Toyota dispense of them after a certain amount of time? I'm sure it costs money to keep such things in storage and at some point...
Sort of, the KS will produce less voltage, especially at multiples of it's tuned frequency. But the voltage will peak at it's tuned frequency. The ECU is looking for the voltage to reach a certain level. When it does, it knows that the KS has encountered that frequency and retards timing...
The output of a knock sensor is not frequency, you're looking for voltage. By design a KS will generate a voltage spike on it's output, when it is vibrated at it's tuned frequency. And due to simple electromagnetic properties a KS will produce no voltage if it fails. It is impossible for a once...
Hot damn, so it on this year huh. Good, looks like I have a goal to get my car ready by.
I know it's a bit out of the way Dave, but it would be great to see you there.
Well it could mean that the bulb for the MIL indicator is burned out but based on the mishap with the ground it's likely something else. Check your fuses to be sure but if the MIL indicator doesn't light up it's a pretty good indication that your ECU is toast.
Like stated above, if you have access to a paper clip and have the ability to count you can pull the codes. These are pre OBD-II cars and do not require fancy computers to do such things, thank god.
If it's not air tight then possibly yes. After the car is turned off and the engine cools down and fluid is typically drawn back in to the radiator through that hose. If it's not sealed then air can get in to the radiator, and cause boiling like your describing the next time you warm up the car.
Pull the shock away from the shock mount, push the wheel assy. down and position the shock slightly above it. Then allow the wheel assy. to come up. it should then slid in.
Also to note if you did take the radiator cap off and air got into the system, as the system heats up the trapped air may push out more fluid than normal into the overflow. It may take one or two heat cycles before all the air has been purged from the system.
Yeah, have the door panels been off lately? If so there is a small plastic sheath that goes over the lock wire. It has to be in the right place before you put the door panel back on. If it's off by even a little it will bind the lock motion.
Here is a pic where I circled the piece in blue...
If all your fans are in working order. I would say you should get a parallel flow type AC condenser. Most modern R134 systems run these.
http://www.partstrain.com/store/details/Toyota/Supra/ACI/A-fs-C_Condenser/1989/Turbo/6_Cyl_3-dot-0L/P39293P.html?vdesc=true
I've got one on order and I hope...
Sorry but most the people here have never seen the manual climate controls(in person), or an electrical wiring diagram to go to with them. A few of the guys from outside the US may have some answers, but it may take a little longer before they see this thread. In the US we only have the digital...
I love that documentary. I have it saved on my computer. There are so many things about that car I find incredible. But I think I love the system and method to the way it's built more than the car itself. It's engineering perfection.
Hey Ian do you know if that 4 million loss is due to the cost...
That may very well be the case. The one I sat in looked far darker than that picture shows, plus there was a gray one setting next to it, so you could really see the difference. To me it definitely looked like black. Not charcoal black like Chrysler or BMW's but definitely dark.
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