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Sounds like a plan, let me know how it turns out. Good Luck.

Wow, Hate to say it bud but I'm out of ideas. I've gone over several diagrams of that system and those are the only points of failure that could affect your system in that manner that I could find. Most likely to least likely. I'll keep looking but at the moment I'm stumped.

Relay

Ok bud, last test Check for continuity between pin 5 and pin 7 if you get any reading other than an open ( 1 ) the relay is bad.

Yes, the charcoal canister has a 2psi check valve in it. The purpose of this is to maintain pressure inside the tank and keep the fuel pump from cavitating under operation.

Well the second part of the test failing isn't a big deal as that won't cause the problems you're describing. If the first part had failed we would have had some answers.

What is the voltage on the battery?

The Haynes manual is unbelievably vague and inaccurate in most cases. Resistance measurements are only effective for the temp sensor. An oscilloscope is needed for an in-depth test. But a basic test of the actual metering device can be preformed here...

Ok, for the time were going to assume, i hate assuming, that the ( - ) is not showing up. I base this on the fact that the pin 2 to 5 reading would be incorrect if it showed anything below the reading given when the two test leads were directly touched together. So well say the reading on pin 2...

Even when the lead are separated, not touching anything? Your multimeter is supposed to display a -1 when not touching anything. Without it working right the readings are hard to correctly understand.

Hmm.. does it show a ( 1 ) or a ( -1 )?

Yeah I'm back down here, but I'll be up for PACNWN. Got the basic model, but that's no problem. Turn it to the 200 next to the horseshoe symbol. now take the test leads and touch them together. It should read between 0.1 and 1.0 depending on how precise the meter is. This is to verify that it...

I picked mine up for $700 but now I'm somewhere well north of of eight grand and still have a pretty long road ahead. You can pick one up for cheap and if you keep your eye out you can get a good deal, I know I did. But you either start off low and have to put a lot time and parts into it to get...

Your multimeter should have a setting that looks like the above image. While this setting is correctly used to check diodes it works great for testing continuity. If it beeps you have continuity, if it's silent then you have an open. I'm willing to bet you will have continuity between pins 2...

You might have gone to bed already, if you have then here is some stuff you can check when you get back on. Check for continuity between pins 1 and 2. If there is no continuity then the relay is bad Next check for an open between pins 2 and 5. If there is continuity between those two...

Hey Adam, can you tell me if the wipers are stuck in the high of low position when on, and relay installed? Also with the relay removed only the high and low function correctly but intermittent, and wash do not function correct? Also, do you have a multi meter that can measure continuity?