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I ordered mine from Modern Automotive Performance, but I think Suprasport might be able to get one- might want to check into them first!

You have to order it from AEM (aka an AEM authorized dealer). I had a hell of a time getting mine and even then it was black magic and voodoo dolls that it ended up in my possession. AEM didn't supply a part number, reciept, or anything. D: Good luck, make sure the dealer you're dealing with...

That's about enough OT for this thread.

To remove/replace the sprag requires total disassembly of the transmission. In most cases you're better off with a new/reman/rebuilt transmission due to possible damage that caused it to fail. As for reliability- I have no idea. It could fail now, it could fail later- ya never know.

There is a 1-way bearing (called a sprag) that holds in 1st gear when in D mode, but its very very very very hard to remove. I would guess the trans failed and he's saying it was an upgrade to mitigate the negative effects. When you manually select 1st gear, a brake clutch is engaged which locks...

Yep, looks functional. Just make sure the pressure side of the bpv is exposed to the boost and not vice-versa. I haven't used a bosch unit, so I can't comment on its proper orientation.

You can put the pressure side of the BPV in between the turbo outlet and intercooler, but its not ideal. Ideally you would have the BPV as close to the throttle body as possible to limit transition time from boost-vacuum-boost. The atmosphere side of the BPV has to be in between the AFM and...

Hmm, well the original build sheet from the original builder (bad machining dude, so grain of salt I guess...) says Chamber volume is 39.5, total tdc volume was 68.7cc. and 8.3:1 was the indicated CR. :runaway:

Not a thing, aside from the slight shaving of the head and block to get the surfaces to 25Ra or better. I was thinking about high comp pistons, but at the time I figured this whole rebuild process was going to be done in a couple months and the pistons had a 4 month lead time from JE. It's been...

No rear bar just yet- I just got the front so we could fabricate/clearance the IC piping without having to change it later.

Hooray for updates! Ordered and recieved my new front swaybar- Tanabe sustec 30.4mm unit. Very light! Picked up my head from the machine shop and it looks boss! Block is going to a while :( I really hope I can make it to powercruise with the car, otherwise I'm stealing a Supra from someone!

The barbs are slightly smaller on all the Mishimoto radiators, at least the ones I've used/seen. All you need to do is get a worm style hose clamp and tighten it properly for flawless performance! (don't overtighten, it can cause leaks)

I'm currently using dual stealth 340's, and no issues yet!

Timing belt tensioner is from dynosaur performance, but it was missing the washer that goes behind the bellcrank. As such, the timing belt wasn't tight and it knocked around quite a bit. Once they got her squared away, BAM! noise was gone.

congratz, Dan!

Have you checked the oil pressure with a mechanical (diagnostic) gauge? The stock gauge isn't always accurate ;)

For the time being its not happening. Until we figure out a for sure date and have people who can attend, we're just going to sit pretty.

The wheel specs: 17x8 +45 in front with a 10mm spacer 17x10 +35 in rear Tires are 235-45-17 and 275-40-17 Ian- yep, no engine so the front end will set down quite a bit afterwards. Conwinb- I use a 96 4-cyl Camry throttle cable. Fits really well with the style of manifold I have, but it...

Got some new rims that should save a lot of weight- shoule be about 40lbs saved from all 4! Also put the hood on to see how it looks, pretty decent if ya ask me along with ~25lbs off ;) Head will be back on tuesday, block will be done on Wednesday, and I should have it all assembled by...

You'll have to drill the block to replicate the turbo block's turbo provisions. You're also going to have to come up with a way to supply coolant to the turbo (pending your turbo had coolant lines)