Search results

Hmm, I'd suspect the fan clutch of locking up unless you saw cracks on the fan itself beforehand. I know after I had rebuilt my clutch it was waaaaaaay too locked up and the fan would likely overspin so I got a new clutch. You're dealing with my worst nightmare regarding that part :( My...

Have a similar issue with mine- testing has indicated an intermittantly failing sender unit. You may consider doing similar testing if you or a friend has a min/max hold function multimeter. Start the car and see what the sender's resistance does as it warms up- if it goes to O ohms or infinite...

You run a restrictor into the manifold, just like the factory throttle body had. It is a small leak, but since its going back into the intake system after the MAF it won't mess up your MAF signals/AFR's.

Bah ha ha

Because you always want movement in the system. If you only allow vacuum to suck stuff in, what is there to help the gasses move during boost? It ties back to where you don't want *only* crankcase pressure moving the gasses. Just lie the factory did, letting a little flow reverse back through...

Need pictures for anyone to help. 1 turbo or 2? All info is needed for anyone to help over the internet!

Not sure if 'just any' PCV valve would work, I suspect that's why IJ used that specific metal one(but I'm still not sure). More research will be needed to find the best answer, I think.

You don't want a check valve, a PCV valve will work correctly. You want flow in both directions through the intake manifold hose. Just look for a PCV that fits your application. In my case I'll be running a 1"-> 1/2" coupler at the catch can, then running it over to the backside of the FFIM...

Yep, sounds like you have the right idea!

The red line goes to the air filter pipe, after going through a secondary catch can. (trying to keep as much oil/water out of the intake as possible) The 1" port is on the top of the can (has a green sponge in it, in the picture) The idea of the 'positive' is that there's somethig else moving...

The way I would suggest setting it up would be the way mine will be set up. I am using one of Andy's cans and I will say it's a good unit- a bit pricey, but for something that works I can't complain. The way I have it set up is like this: There are 4 ports on the can- there are 2 1/2" side...

Since you're running an upgraded pump, I would suggest either drilling out or bypassing the J-tube. It may be a contributing factor to the failure you have been experienced, albeit slight. I hear ya on the small things killing the car- you'll survive though. I know I have! :)

Nope, sounds like a failed diaphragm in the damper. It happens from time to time, and all you can do is replace it. It's unlikely anything you did caused it to fail, unless you stuck pins and needles into it ;) edit: have you bypassed the J-tube? That could cause too much fuel pressure, but...

It runs and drives! Drove it to the meet today :D What's needed yet: 3" Intercooler piping 3.5" exhaust assembly Tune Get kicked off of the track!

Tight=hung valves, burnt due to lack of cooling (by not contacting the valve seat), valve seat damage is also possible. In Spec=happy engine Loose= possible spitting shims if the cams are aggressive/high rpm, noise, lack of performance, emissions testing failure.

I have a Dahn Automotive AL 3.5" driveshaft tht I'm in love with so far. My exhaust is too loud to hear anything else so I can't comment on the nose, but I haven't felt any vibration like my stocker had with the slipped rear joint. Best part is, it was only ~$600 for the shaft shipped. You may...

Yup, here's the first startup of the beast last night. Much work to do yet! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xoWR2eJakW4&feature=g-upl

Well it runs, albeit poorly atm. But it's together and it runs! Had a hang-up with the transmission being in reverse when the shift linkage was installed so it was jammed in reverse but I got that sorted pretty quickly. Timing light is coming back to me tomorrow and break-in can begin again!

When the fuel injectors open, the pressure and fluid in the rail shifts slightly, it's called fuel pressure pulsation. There are frequency peaks resulting from that can affect the fuel moving through the injectors if it gets bad enough. It's the reason the pulsation dampers were installed- to...

Another thing that comes to mind is if you have deleted the fuel pulsation damper. I had a lean issue with my 720's at ~3k rpm, went away with a damper.