the lock keyring lights up with the same duration as the interior overhead lights. I believe they are on the same circuit, if you "lift" the driver's door handle when locked, the interior light will come on as well as the "lightring" to expedite entry. At least thats how it works on my soup...
I too would like to give a big thank-you to Mike for all the hard work as well. We all benefit from his efforts and I know its not always a cakewalk. Supramania rocks!!!
I believe Oscolivar is referring to ARP head studs/bolts. I think there are only one type of ARP fastener bolts for the actual rods, the rods need to be machined to accomodate the new ARP fasteners, but they are supposedly quite a bit stronger than stock rod bolts.
If you're going to all the trouble of rebuilding, ARP the rod bolts for peace of mind. It increases the tensile strength of the rods and thats apparently quite important.
the single exh. port probably won't be a huge issue, but I'd seriously think about o/s valves now that you dinged the valve seats, I'm pretty sure it will cause blowby if left. The valves pretty much have to seat perfectly. Ferrea 1mm o/s valves come to mind, they're not cheap tho.
got mine last year, for my dd. I like 'em, seem to be holding up quite well so far. (32 oz black with white "Supra" lettering). Probably get another set for the project car...
everythings the same except the cams, (different lift & duration). I believe some members on here use one of each type on their builds. Apparently using an n/a cam on one side changes the power band response somewhat, but I'm unsure of the particulars...
my rad split along the top tank right under the hose, not bad enough to notice escaping steam, but caused temp probs. & coolant loss. Perhaps pressure test your coolant system and then look at hg subsequently.
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