Search results

Targas definitely need a brace with the top removed imho. I noticed it drives the same as with the roof on when braced. Its all good that way, cruising with the roof off this summer has been a blast! have fun!

Needs paint and a rebuild. Looks pretty clean though. Engine shots? I'm not sure about the market there, but I bought a similar car for $1950.00 Offer 18 and haggle? These cars are money pits, so keep a wheelbarrow full of $$ for the rebuild. Don't forget to save some for turbo, clutch, sways...

I can't smell anything because I'm too busy trying to cover up my bleeding ears from this new 3" exhaust. We should get a hp/decibel chart, I think mine will be one for one. My car actually smells ok now that it dried out from the summer weather. I pulled the ugly carpet and got it cleaned. That...

edited orig. post.. If you find a good one for cheap, lmk. Tell us what you end up with. Gl! You have a stock intercooler with hard pipes? There are some pretty good deals on aftermarket ones here, might be a good upgrade for you from the sounds of the setup imho.

Whats your final hp goals ? I saw the mod list, perhaps a Spec clutch? Mine seems pretty good. I think some of the best prices on stock ones are here...

Ohhhh, so thats why Oprah has all that cash...

Yes, a non-turbo head will work. I think one of the cams is slightly different, the rest is the same. It will still work, though. (Although the castings changed over the years, I believe the 91-92's were the "best"). I'm sure someone on here could give you the particulars.

rewire the knock sensors, do a search on here for that. The error codes can be found here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=26

The octane rating of the gas you use has nothing to do with the clutch characteristics. It sounds like your clutch hydraulics are having problems at this point. Its just coincidence. Start by checking the clutch pedal freeplay, and the master and slave cylinders. edit, oops, s383 beat me to it!

That sounds like a sweet ass setup. Gl on the rollers! What kinda clutch are you using?

I was kind of in the same boat, I just put it back mostly stock till I broke the engine in, now that it's done, I'm going to wire up the Maftpro thats been sitting around...of course I'll have to pick Dave's brains, we all need a little experienced help with new tuning systems...hopefully there...

1st Mk II in '99. Sold it to the 1st person who came to look at it. It was mint black, and I shoulda kept it and dropped a 7M into it. 1st MK III in '01. Burgundy n/a, fixed everything on it, 1st person who came to look at it bought it. Now fixing up my '88T, talk about money pits. But its sure...

For $650 you could get a Maftpro with speed density, wideband o2 etc. and forget about Mass air flow sensors. I'd give that some thought...

Milo is a slacker, he sits and dreams about pussy all day....

have you benched the tps to make sure its all good? I had a couple of bad spots on mine which caused similar probs. Perhaps swap it out...? no codes but it made a night & day diff with mine.

Call Jeff @ Champion Toyota for good prices on such things as accordian hoses. 1-713-943-7010.

Thats definitely worth it. Just a recharge of r134a costs $100 here, never mind the new parts.

Front strut bars are overrated according to some knowledgeable members on here. You can pull the hats and use most of them with just the actuators on. Redline 75-90 LSD oil is great for the diff. and Redline MT-90 is a good candidate for manual transmissions. Theres alot of synthetic blends out...

will do, thanks

I'm currently rebuilding my '88T, and I have a used diff. to go in. It looks nasty, and I'd like to know the best way to restore the case's appearance. I was thinking of removing the back cover and sandblasting that, and wirewheeling the rest...anyone else gone through this?