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I'd coat the skirts as Ian described...If I was doing mine over again, I would.

I'd definitely check the differential. One Supra we worked on bucked like a bronco till the diff was changed out.

I don't know anything about wiring, so it sure looked good to me. Jetjock would you be kind enough to make a diagram of the way you'd design it? (you could make a sticky...) I'd like to relocate my battery as well. But after this discussion, I'd sure like a schematic from a pro.

Using Ross's here, no torque plate. 5 thou. clearance, no coatings. Minor slapping when its cold. Once its warm its golden.

The barrel holders are not the same for the two tails. Iirc there is a plastic holder that secures the locking cylinder to the clips on the '89+'s and its different for the 86.5's - '88's. I just use the release on the floor on mine, as the cylinder never did work too well (it just spins as its...

Don't have a pic, but another stock Toyota color is: Baltic Blue Pearl. I'm not sure if its MK III or MKIV, but it's gorgeous as well. I think the code is 8S3 iirc. My stock color right now is Dk. blue pearl on my '88T. 8E3 is the code on that one.

I'm pretty sure I saw that on "Transformers"... It turns into Snotzilla! Whatever that guys been smokin', don't gimme a hit. Alternative reality ftl.

New pumps, timing belt, and balance the bottom end. Flow check the injectors before re-using. I'd change the fuel pump and filter as well. Pressure check the coolant system while you're at it. might as well change the clutch since you're in there.

# 8 is just a holder that wraps around the wires that run from the tranny to the engine. Perhaps the speedo cable as well.

'88T, bought with a spun rod bearing. Rebuilt engine, new clutch, springs, shocks, brakelines, lower ball joints, rad, turbo, exhaust, shifter. To go in still: Maft, ffim, new i/c, buncha other small crap, lastly paint, body, bigbrakes and audio.

Not sure about stock mats, but you can get just about any new color combo you want. If I remember correctly they're about $125.00 for fronts. Sorry I can't remember the name of the co., but I'm sure someone on here will chime in.

dealer item

I'd spend the money on a rebuild as well. As long as you have a good hookup for the machine work, it gives a further edge in reliability I think. Its a lot of work, but like other members have mentioned, you'll know whats in there. I'd also pay attention to the rods, ARP fasteners and...

shitty deal, looked like a nice Supra, pm'd

12-14 pounds is the easy answer, but try the search feature, there's lots of discussion on here about it. There is no explicit answer without more details regarding mods.

I'd have to agree with "what doesn't kill you makes you stronger"... ummmm,,, ever heard of muscular dystrophy, moron?

Beautiful numbers, Nate. (and well deserved too)! Those 1/4 times should be great. Sequential shifter time (to shave those last tenths)?

thanks for the help, its golden now.

I just bought a used Aeromotive 13109. It has four ports and a gauge outlet. Supposedly the two side ones are inlet/outlet, the back one is bypass and the bottom one is return. It came with a feed line and a line that was supposed to bypass the fpd. Just no installation instructions. I pulled...

Can anyone help me with an "idiots guide to AFPR installation"? I bought a used one but didn't get any install directions with it. It obviously isn't rocket science but I seem to be having problems. Apparently you can discard the FPD with this unit, but some install directions would be a great...