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Are you checking this with a known good mechanical oil pressure gauge? Which oil pressure port are you tapping into?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291410/catalog.aspx?F=1708&P=2 Hope that helps..

Your input is appreciated trust me. Im glad there is someone with some knowledge stepping in and supporting their point of view instead of simply taking the word of a select few members. To make an educated decision one needs to know multiple views on something and you have pointed out some good...

Yup perfectly normal, it doesn't sweep to 4.5v like you would expect.

Fact of the matter is that there are several Supras that won't put the aluminum shaft out of its safe range, so there is no problem with running one.

I think the bottom line here is that every application has its own suitable type of shaft... not much more to it. There are many applications that a one piece is fine and others that it is not. If you are building a high horsepower car, you use parts that are going to be suitable for the...

Pressure test the cooling system and check for leaks (don't forget to check the floor inside the car for coolant which could be a leaking heater core), don't forget to test the cap while you are at it. Does it have a 50/50 mix of antifreeze/water?

Whats your point? If you are trying to argue that what I said is invalid because you must spend more money on everything simply because it is a Supra, I am not really interested in arguing, but if you have an actual point I would love to hear it. There are good points about the pros/cons of both...

1 piece is a good option because of price... You get a brand new shaft as well as new joints for a little over $300, whereas with stock you are almost at that price point just replacing the center support bearing, then you have to hope your rear bonded section has not shifted, that your u joints...

Has anyone ever used a helper spring on the stock wastegate? I am running a 57 trim CT26 and my base boost is only about 6 PSI, I am trying to run almost 3 times that much boost (16 PSI) and using a quality boost controller I still have some inconsistency in the boost curve. I would like to...

Turbosmart makes an Eboost Street which is a simpler version of their other models, and goes for about $320. The newer version is good for up to 40 psi, I just picked one up but have yet to get it dialed in so no comment on its performance just yet.

\ Hope that helps! Pic thanks to Grimjack

CSI is only active during cranking under certain conditions, once the engine fires up the CSI does nothing. Do you have any codes?

Ya 0w30 is the only variety of German Castrol fully synthetic, just make sure it says "Made in Germany" on the back. Because even a 0wXX oil is "too thick" when cold, a 0wXX will always be a better choice than a 5wXX 10wXX 20wXX etc. even in the hottest of weather.

You are an idiot and a disgrace to the community...get off my internets... JK glad it was a simple fix and you guys got it figured out! Bet that wont ever happen to you again, and probably not to me either now that I have read your thread (though no guarantees :P).

After some more diligent searching... Figured I would post in case anyone else is looking. Looks like I will give IGT a shot http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?39298-Igniter-Coil-System& Would still like to know what kind of signal IG - outputs though.

Awesome find! Car looks great.

But does it really matter? If you are willing to pay ex. 6 dollars a quart for a quality oil, what difference does it make where it came from? Are you paying for the process or are you paying for the final product? All I personally care about in the end is that it is a good quality product...

Well my new boost controller from Turbosmart has an RPM input feature and I am trying to figure out how to hook it up. The directions state "The RPM input can accept a square wave signal between 3.5 and 12V." I did some searching and only thing I found was that IGT may be the signal I am...

Thats not a whole lot of mods, don't see how those numbers are bad.