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That just tells you that the valve itself is working and the passages are clear, you still need to make sure the lines are routed properly and your VSV and vacuum modulator are working properly. If they aren't, the valve will not open when it is supposed to if at all.

That blows. Were you able to turn the cam prior to running the engine? Id be talking to the machine shop before ripping anything apart. At least that way if it is their fault, you wont be blamed.

The EGR can have several things wrong from misrouted vacuum lines, faulty electronics, sticking valve etc. It can also be clogged with carbon build up internally. An easy way to check if its clogged/a valve problem is to apply full vacuum directly to the egr valve with the engine idling, if...

The head and block BOTH need to be machined regardless of the previous gasket condition when installing an MLS type gasket, and machining the block requires complete dissasembly of the engine. If the engine is running fine, I would recommend you leave it that way (wouldn't even disrupt it by...

LOL Also, great site, definitely bookmarked!

Thanks, just what I needed to know. Replaced it and it works great now.

Is that a turbo A head? Looks like the combustion chambers are heavily modified.

OK well I am not an expert on transistors, only know the basics. I recently made the mistake of testing my blue headlight retraction box on a friends car which had faulty wiring, and ended up shorting out the main headlight relay transistor. The collector is shorted to the emitter causing my...

Ya I actually saw that and laughed my ass off... More concerned now about the actual performance of the ac than I am about overheating.

Been in the low 90's lately, thought i would add that i have gone back to a completely stock gauge cluster, I think the less I know the better :icon_razz AC is working pretty well so far, my only complaint is that when the car/engine is heatsoaked it takes centuries to get cold, though I can...

^ God the 7mge's sound god-awfully raspy... MERCUH!! FF YEAH! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auySflKhyIQ

Well I am making over 350 and I haven't had an issue. Ive taken it to the track once since its been tuned and it felt fine, no full boost launches though, and only on street tires. If you have the money and plan to drive it hard (clutch dumps and full boost dumps) you might as well just go for...

No prob, the lug nuts can be had at any automotive parts store. Just make sure they are the right thread/diameter (cant remember off hand what they are).

Why dont you call AEM and have them fix the output for you, no sense running two gauges. I just bought the NGK AFX and I am pretty happy with it so far. Display update could be faster, but the analog output update is very fast, and that is what is important anyways. I put it on top of my...

Unfortunately there is no way to know how much oil in the system. The only way to know is to flush every component, remove the compressor and drain it, then put in the proper amount.

Lol..but a bit misleading no? Also, don't know the details, but SuprRich's sig on SF states stock turbo/intercooler 11.95

Don't know what to tell you on the 10" deep dish ones. Im running a 255/40 on my wheels right now, and the tire is basically perfectly flush with the stock wheel arc. Not sure how much you can pull the fenders as ive never messed with the rear fenders before. I'm also on Megan Racing Track...

Haha glad it was put to good use! So how are you running 12psi on pump if it detonates at 10psi?

Are you using an OEM gasket? Are you sure it is leaking from the gasket, and not from the line connections themselves? Its possible the DM flange is not perfectly flat, wouldn't hurt to check. I always put a very very small amount of right stuff gasket maker on the gasket just for extra...

Didn't you say you were running 12 psi on pump?