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I have read through some of the BITOG stuff but doesn't really help me a lot in my situation. That article is all testing on a stock Miata, but how will things change when a large increase in air volume is needed for higher horsepower? I have read over and over that apexi and aem dry flow filter...

Well it does missfire when it goes lean, but I believe it misses because it goes lean, and not the other way around. When I disconnect the o2 sensor the idle stabilizes, but runs rich. The car often does have a low load missfire (that common idle bump), but I have had the car idling and missing...

Oh so the holes are actually offset? So if I put the pin in the left hole of the cam and the left hole of the gear the timing wouldn't be stock?

Just out of curiosity, know of any reason why the cam/cam gear even has more than one hole?

If removing the crank anyways, wouldn't it be an easier/better solution to cut a new keyway 180 from the original and just put a new 0 mark on the damper for timing?

Thanks for the info. So I need to do the resistor mod to get my car to run right without storing the IAT code? What resistor ohm value do you recommend/what temperature should I have it default to? Besides storing a code, are there any negative aspects to leaving the TPS and MAFTPRO power...

Looks like Grim had the same thing. It is an interesting function that allows the ECU to see a WOT signal when certain parameters are met to avoid a lean part throttle boost...unfortunately it isnt perfected and it throws a code. I am assuming that niether of these codes when stored will...

OK well some info on my car 7MGTE MAFTPRO tuning - speed density conversion 550cc injectors Walbro 255lph 2.5" intercooler piping/3" intercooler full 3" exhaust The problem I am having is that sometimes at idle, the a/f ratio will fluctuate from normal to lean and back (will go lean for maybe 5...

Make sure you mic the snout though, if it wobbled enough to make the end of the snout of the crank smaller than original just repairing the keyway isn't going to do it. I had a crank here that had the same issue (though looked a lot worse) and the area where the damper sits was .050" smaller...

But can this be done in situ? And if not, is it really worth the money/effort/risk considering how available our cranks still are?

Since I live in a VERY dusty climate, I am a little concerned about air filtration. After cleaning my engine bay, I literally find dust EVERYWHERE only a week later, it is crazy how dusty my area is. I have a 7mgte making 375 hp to the wheels and I am currently running an Apexi Dryflow air...

Yeah you can fill the 7mge one quart over as well, gives you a safety margin and prevents starving the pump under hard braking. Just fill it up until it shows full on the dipstick, then add one full quart. IIRC someone measured the pan and it is plenty deep enough to hold the extra oil without...

What do you mean? I have never input an actual desired PSI. Only setting to increase or decrease PSI is SetPoint. I have the Eboost Street, but even the high dollar TurboSmart boost controllers use the same inputs to set boost. Heres all inputs as far as setting boost goes. SetPoint...

Thanks for the read, it was informative. One thing I am still confused about, never really understood- How does the control unit correct for changes above and below my "set point" if no actual target boost pressure is input? The only parameters the control box has are SetPoint, Sensitivity...

As far as I know, I feel that I understand the settings as well as what they do pretty well, but the problem is they are not doing what they are supposed to do. I know that 0 PSI gate pressure is bad for spool, but my immediate goal is to eliminate the initial spike. As of right now I could...

Cant get much lower than 0 :icon_bigg The unit is super easy to adjust on the fly so I have tried an array of settings, gate pressure will affect spool time until I raise gate pressure up to about 13psi, any more than that and it begins spiking worse. Sensitivity too high results in an initial...

Yeah, in fact I only put the washers there in effort to combat this issue and get a more stable boost curve, though it really didn't seem to help or hurt anything.

Been messing around with excell il try overlaying them next time, just looks a bit cluttered. That is just the problem though, I don't really know what else to change. When you see boost start to fall and rise up again, it is probably the high RPM correction factor working (it is enabled)...

Here, I am just going to upload the excel spreadsheet of the logs, I already inserted the graphs at the bottom of the data, but I figured the more info you have the better (if you need it). Keep in mind I have the wastegate shimmed with 2 washers on each bolt (3-4mm IIRC) I appreciate all the...

Ya I can do that, is it alright if I leave the restrictor in or would you prefer I remove it?