A lot of people replace the no 3 cover with either drain plug gaskets, FIPG, or o rings to seal them up. If they aren't leaking, you have nothing to worry about. Check this out for more info. http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/mkiii-faq/7527-got-oil-on-top-of-your-spark-plugs.html
For code 24 the only part of the AFM you need to check is the temperature sensor.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=96
Sounds like you already did, but I'm not certain. Once you know the sensor is good you need to make sure your wiring is good. E2 wire...
Stick a screwdriver in the fitting and twist it whichever way it needs to be twisted, the line is not difficult to tweak. I noticed the hex part of that damn bolt is sharp as a mother too which doesn't help anything. I wouldn't touch the oil filter housing personally, I have seen people crack...
Unplug your fluid level switch and see if it goes away, if not, unplug your ebrake switch and see if it goes away. If one of the switches is shorted it could cause that. Besides that, a short to ground anywhere on the ground side of the bulb could cause the light to come on.
Does your...
Its not when you are in 100+ weather, in fact with longer idle times (with AC on) Ive seen higher temps on a completely new cooling system with everything in tact + koyo radiator and Tundra fan clutch. Keep in mind, the stock gauge supposedly doesn't move from the normal just below halfway...
Devin may be onto something with compression, it should be checked, but it doesn't sound like you have lost all compression IMO I would think it would still fire at least a little. Spray some starting fluid or brake cleaner into a vacuum port and see if it fires up momentarily.
The pump still runs at 12v under certain conditions, potentially overloading the circuit, I wouldn't do the Walbro pump without the 12v mod with larger gauge wiring that shaeff mentioned, then again I haven't crunched any numbers for what the stock wiring can handle.
I assume you are talking about the axle nut.
You should be able to get it with a long enough breaker bar :). One thing to make it easier is to put a jack with a block of wood under the socket when you get your breaker bar on it, that way when you go to push down on the bar there's less chance...
Best bet is to leave it on, there is no advantage to taking it off besides access if you have adjustable gears, but like powaz said once they are tuned, cover should be put back on to protect the belt and pulleys. I would buy a plate for behind the cam gears, I wouldn't run without one. The...
Ive got that same unit and I like it a lot. They say you have to calibrate the sensor every month or whatever, but in the few months I have had it the calibration hasn't been needed. I have gone to calibrate it and it didn't need any adjustment.
I think the FJO wideband has a similar type of...
Eboost street boost controller, got this a while ago but never posted it in here
Also got some new gauges. These are fully programmable, so using the aux out of my NGK wideband controller I was able to display a/f ratio on this analog gauge. Used a map sensor for the boost gauge.
If you pull the cam covers, there is a hex shape in the cams, you can put an adjustable wrench on there to hold it from turning. Be extremely careful if you are going to use penetrating oil, you don't want to get any on the timing belt.
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