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OK well I bought a real set of Mastecool gauges and got some more readings. Today it was a little cooler than usual, around 95. First was with the car completely cold and coming out of my garage, so everything nice and cool Blower on high, recirculation mode Steady Cruise Low pressure - ~8...

Hmm didn't know that thanks for the info.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Adapters-connectors-2jzgte-2jzge-2jz-gte-7mgte-1jzgte-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27bc6fd5ccQQitemZ170665170380QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Like that?

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Speedo cable grommet is an easy spot, right behind the cylinder head.

Only way the head wouldn't be flush is if something was stuck between the head and the block. What you are thinking of is the lower timing cover which doesn't need to be machined unless the block was machined. The one bolted to the head is just a thin sheet metal that does not need to be...

There are different wastegates out there, the automatic transmission vehicles had a 4.8 to 6 PSI wastegate, so that might be the one installed on your turbo. Nothing wrong, but it will create less boost than you are used to.

I'm kind of confused, was the block machined? The cover behind the cam pullies does not need to be machined, but the aluminum rear timing cover that bolts to the block must be machined only if the block deck is being machined. Did you use RTV sealant in the two spots at the front of the block...

Oh, well either way it doesn't matter because the TXV is not original and is basically brand new. I'm pretty sure the one that was recalled was the one that had no external sensing bulb (H valve). My MR2 had the same recall for that type of expansion valve.

Well this is great, now my schrader refuses to shut itself all the way. I put an R134a fitting on the low side because my gauges don't have shut off valves for R12, only R134A. Tried running the shut off valve in and out several times and tapping around the valve with a screwdriver and nothing...

Awesome I will get some of that. Condenser was not replaced because it was in perfect condition as far as fin condition goes, and no leaks. It was removed and flushed to get all PAG oil out when I went back to R12. I was close to either buying a new one or buying a parallel flow type, but I...

OK, right now my thermocouple is clamped to the line using a hose clamp, then the whole thing covered with a split rubber hose and zip tied shut. Maybe this isn't enough? I don't know where to get that sticky insulating goo you talked about before. It is also just hard to believe that there is a...

Yeah, didn't mention it but I always roll the windows down and put it on fresh air for a min after I take off. Interior soaks up so much heat though it is ridiculous, I can drive around with the windows down for 10 mins and it's still hotter in the car than it is outside, I always use a sunshade...

OK so I got some numbers for superheat that don't make a ton of sense. This thread is now about A/C by the way. I had my compound gauge hooked up while driving, and my thermocouple mounted to the suction line directly after coming out of the firewall. Car was heatsoaked, about 100 degree...

Car looks good with the tint! Thats pretty dark stuff it must be nice. I would stay away from the Freeze 12 if I were you. Freeze 12 is 80% R134A anyways, and has a lot of drawbacks. There is no reason to use it if you are flushing the system and putting PAG oil in. Most people use Freeze 12...

How much oil can you fit without the oil sloshing into the crank during normal driving?

I don't think what he wants is listed there. I just measured my good crank snout, and it measures 35.00 mm.

That stuff is about 80% R134A and 20% R142b anyways. If used the dryer definitely needs to be changed as the older descants can actually dissolve with the introduction of R134A, and if you develop a leak you can disproportionately lose the mixture of refrigerants. If all the R142b leaks out and...

Eh, the Megans are bottom of the line coilovers. One of them has developed a leak as well. They are definitely stiff but I daily drive my car and its not really an issue unless I drive on the crappy roads in Phoenix. They handle alright, but honestly if I could do it again I would go with a...

Well what you mention in that post basically backs up what I am saying. Toyota designed the rod bolts to withstand the stock RPM, piston speed, stroke etc. without issue, so why is it that stronger rod bolts are required for higher HORSEPOWER levels with no change to redline, piston weight, or...