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April 86 here lol. What was the first month of production?

So what exactly is your problem OP, the air won't come out of the defroster vent, or air won't come out of anywhere at all? Is the blower motor running?

LOL same and I was rofling

Use a test light or DMM to see if there is power at the EFI fuse with the key on. Also, does the main relay click when you remove/insert it with the key on? Make sure you checked the AM2 fuse, it is a box fuse so it looks different than the other blade fuses and you may have missed it.

Did you check the fuses in the engine bay, specifically the EFI fuse? Also, check the AM2 box fuse in the engine bay fuse box.

Haven't posted in here in a while! Here's what my car looks like now.

This is just one of those questions you DON'T ask a Supra owner.... :p

:rofl:

The charge pipe under the turbo is pretty notorious for going bad, you might have burst it on a side you can't easily see. Even though everything is still clamped on it might be worth checking all the rubber for any cracks or tears.

+1 graphite/composite refer to the same thing. Go with OEM or FelPro which is equal in quality. If you re use the stock bolts, torque to 72 ft lbs and if you use ARP hardware, torque them to the ARP specs with the ARP lube, it is critical you follow the instructions from them to a tee!

Yeah, you can either set the light to 0 and line up the crankshaft mark to 10 on the timing cover, or set the light to 10 and line up the crankshaft mark to 0 on the timing cover. Either will do the exact same thing. Make sure you place a jumper between pins T and E1 in the diagnostic box and...

The ECU looks for a signal from the knock sensors at a particular load and or RPM (not sure if it looks for one or the other or both), and when it doesn't see it, it turns on the MIL. Each time you turn the key off, this resets, and again at the specified load and rpm value it will look for a...

I used to be a big poster on xbox scene. Had a bunch of case mods and chipped my original xbox with a 160 gig hdd (was big at the time lol) had a bunch of games on it, but then I got a car and totally lost interest haha. How much better does watercooling work in comparison to a good heatsink and...

Sorry to bump this old thread, but is there an aluminium heater core available anywhere? Most auto parts store cores I see are brass/copper and are around $50. Not trying to cheap out, but no way I am spending $350 to replace my heater core with OEM, considering I rarely even use the heater.

Are you sure the head and block were prepped properly? Were the studs torqued properly? Were they re torqued? When I had a bad BHG it didn't show on the block tester. As soon as I did a leakdown test, it was clear as day, radiator started to overflow water with the cap open and pressure in...

Thanks! But no more pics, that's all I've got.

You might have forgotten to hook up the vacuum line to the valve. With you heat on full blast, check the valve, the arm should be UP. If it is still down youve got an issue.

No prob man good luck getting it running. I have been on the maftpro for almost a year now and I am still fine tuning it.

Technically you can simply add PAG oil to the system and charge with R134a, so if he did that, you may still be safe in that aspect, but the receiver and o rings/seals still need to be changed to R134a compatible ones. http://www.ccar-greenlink.org/documents/Toyota_Retrofit_ac002t98.pdf Read...

Evac only removes the refrigerant. If he knew anything about working on AC he would have put an identifier on it first to see what was in it. Evacuating doesnt remove the oil, just the refrigerant, and the R12 oil (mineral) isn't compatible with R134a. The refrigerant will circulate but the oil...