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Pretty much. This is how I did it to simplify things... After adding those resistors I of course had to re wire IGT and IGF

The dotted lines represent the wires being cut, and the resistors are tapped. Pins 3 and 4 have no pre-existing function, so you must add those pins to the connector of the maft pro. One leg of the left resistor taps into E1, the other leg taps into IGT ECU side. The only wires you cut are IGF...

http://fullthrottletech.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=916&d=1216749530 Use that. I am running speed density/timing control without issue. You are only tapping off of the 5v map sensor wire.

Looking at the diagram in the tsrm it doesn't seem to matter if you cap the lines off. Coolant will still flow at the rear of the head, it's not like it will dead end at the cap. How hot are we talking when you say heating up? I live in Phoenix so I know heat just as well as you do. 220 degrees...

So with the AC on high/recirc./windows open/hood open it was blowing about 60*f from the vent (cooler out today, and it was only about 10 AM). Bubbles apparent in sight glass (idle), drenched the condenser for about 3 mins and the vent temp dropped to about 52* and no more bubbles in the glass...

But why are my high side pressures so far out of specs?

Thats what I mean, I can't think of any way to increase airflow through the condenser any more, I have already done as much as I can for airflow. Yeah there is an internal adjustment on the TXV, but getting it adjusted requires evacuation and full removal of the evap core. You may be onto...

What inclines you to think it is the compressor? How could a bad compressor produce pressures as high/low as it does? I will try spraying the condenser, but I don't honestly see how I can get any more airflow through it. I guess now my only interest is how to improve the stock system, the way...

Fuel, cooling system, brakes and suspension are probably the areas I would never cheap out on, considering that a little money saved comes at the price of big risk.

:icon_razz

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=AC&P=42 It's the ambient temp sensor used for the climate control

I don't have the pusher fan on my car, they were only installed on some 88+ Supras, and they changed all the lines in front of the condenser to accommodate it, so I wouldn't be able to bolt one on. I have installed a small aftermarket pusher fan last year and it didn't do crap, the clutch fan...

Does it seem feasible to you guys that the Koyo aluminum radiator is causing a big enough restriction to reduce airflow through the condenser, leading to my problems? The guys on the AC forum don't have any other ideas as to why my high side pressures are so high, and it's about the only thing...

Looks like there may be some thread left, you MAY be able to get a 1/8 BSPT plug in there.

Ks is the airflow signal, not knock sensor. You don't touch the knock sensors or their wiring for the MaftPro.

How the heck did he manage that?!

No bearings for the cams! Just make sure you remove the caps in the correct order. Also make sure you put a decent amount of lube on everything when you put it back together, and torque them to spec in the proper order. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=48...

Remove the cams and it's painless.

Well I had a nice break from the heat, AC worked great in the sub 90 degree weather :D. I was hoping to spot your Supra when I rolled through Thousand Oaks :p But, now that I am back in the hell hole, the AC is back to its same old self. Can a weak compressor produce the pressures that I am...

If your hatch wont open with the lever, the cable being stretched is the most common cause If your dome lights work intermittently, the rivets probably worked loose If your timing belt does not track properly, the crank timing gear guide has probably separated Etc etc... While I completely get...