Search results

If everything was great and the bearings looked perfect, you may get away with simply replacing the current bearing with a new one of the same number. You would want to plastigauge before you button it all of of course though.

After 25+ years I wouldn't give any value to those stamped numbers... If you want to do it right, measure the all the crank journals and match each to a number in the TSRM, then measure all the main bearing bores and do the same, then measure all the rod big ends and do the same. Once you have a...

And how am I going to explain to my boss why there is a pic of a half naked little boy sucking a popsicle in my computers cache lol.

Update! Tore the engine down and found that the spiral lock grooves on my Probe pistons had somehow worn out and let the locks jiggle around in there until they finally popped out and let the wrist pin dig into the cylinder walls... Block is junk and was scrapped, got a hold of an NA 7m...

No difference you can plug a grey one into a green connector and vice versa.

Thanks, didn't take long. "The maximum operating pressure should not exceed 75% of the full scale range. If a gauge is not selected considering these criteria, it may result in fatigue of the Bourdon tube." Guess I will keep looking or settle for a larger scale.

Ya I used to have one but I really don't want another gauge in the cockpit I want to keep it simple inside. I had a mech gauge in the engine bay for a while and liked it that way, but just looking for something smaller and more precise at a lower psi range.

Im interested in adding a small 1.5" oil pressure gauge to my engine bay for my new build. Would be nice to have one to glance at and make sure oil pressure is good. I really want the large low PSI range so I can look at the idle pressure of the 7m (will be around 10 PSI), so I don't want a...

I don't think mk3 owners would be able to afford stamped steel valve covers :P

Yeah it is, so if you don't loop it your engine may warm up unevenly. When the thermostat is closed, coolant flows through these lines to keep coolant within the block circulating, and if you just cap it off, you lose that circulation.

Its possible the valve covers, cam caps (require RTV under them), or cam seals are leaking. If it is none of these, it would have to be the head gasket, as that seals oil between the head and the timing cover. I assume it is leaking oil.

Not to mention that the mains and rods will have to be resized if you decide to change the hardware, which is an added cost if everything was in spec with the stock hardware.

That is probably what they meant. Cut the wire completely and run your new wire.

Lol did I do that? BTW make sure you coat the lip of the new seal with some oil before you put it in.