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If you can't find the stuff IJ recommended, I have had good success with "Right Stuff" sealant. It comes in a pressurized can and is pretty expensive (I think $15 for a can), but it works really well and you can find it at pretty much any parts store.

Well I took it down to the shop today and he was apologetic and offered to bore it out free of charge to the next larger size. They are going to take that bore out a few more thousandths to make sure it cleans up before I purchase the pistons.

As far as the bearings go you really need to measure the size of the crank journals and the rod big ends/main bearing bores. Once you know the exact measurement of all of these you can select the proper bearing for the clearance you want to achieve. Gets rid of any guesswork. Sorry to hear about...

It's Autozone trying to tarnish Napa's reputation

I am only aiming for about 400HP and under with this build. The forged pistons aren't a necessity but extra assurance. I will have a talk with the shop and see what they think. If I were to get the block sleeved I imagine they would need to resurface the block again.

Yeah I don't want to chance anything. Considering how much money goes into a build, I would hate to have to do it all over again for something stupid like this that is deep inside the motor. Still sucks though as I am going to lose a bit of money on machine work and the pistons. Shop might work...

Top of piston to top of top ring : 8.3mm Distance of lowest part of pitting from deck surface: 71.8mm Material removed from deck: .2mm Top of piston to bottom of oil groove: 21.2mm 91mm-8.3mm= 82.7mm So in this case the top ring will go about 11mm past the pitting? Lmk if I am getting this.

Ah gotcha. Just measured it and its approx 2.9" from both the top and the bottom of the cylinder. I have no idea where the bottom of the ring travel is because I don't have my crank or anything in the motor right now, but comp height on these pistons is 1.299, if that helps anything.

I did take a measurement with my bore gauge it is about .003" larger in the deepest part of it. Its on cyl. 5. I most worried about burning oil.

Just that one cylinder and that one spot. Not sure if sleeving is something they can do with a 7m block? Crosshatch is fine, probably just looks different because I have been wiping the oil away from that spot. Bought the pistons from SupraStore but returning is out as the packets inside have...

Well with my new build I am doing, I went with Wiseco .5mm oversize pistons. This block was rusted out pretty good, but when I measured it I was sure it would clean up. The entire block cleaned up except for this one part. The machine shop gave it back to me like this, but the more I look at it...

If you have the pre 89 water temp sensor then the pins and connectors are identical to that of an EV1 injector connector. A google search will show how to depin one of those without much trouble, just need something small enough to fit into the small opening above the pins.

Caps are stamped for direction and position from the factory :)

You must not have stock cams? All the cams I have ever seen have had two flat spots on that round area you are hitting.

Thanks Albert. Some more pics

I had one go bad on me randomly, which triggered the light. After I found which one it was and replaced it the light went away.

That wiring looks like a pita

Lol yep, and your plug wires are still going strong as well. Almost all of them were through driftmotion, the csi, water temp sensor and csi time switch were all identical to EV1 injector connectors (this is for pre-89). Eastern beaver has the connectors for the VSV's.

Harness is completed! Fully plug and play for my maft pro now. New connectors for injectors, tps, iscv, o2s, water temp sensor, csi, csi switch. Cant wait to have a good condition harness on my engine. And my color scheme :)...Cummins beige. Don't ask why because I have no idea! Engine...