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Yes completely possible, you just pry the old seal out of the retainer/housing and evenly tap the new one into place. Trans and flywheel needs to be removed.

Koyo fits fine, but you have to -Shave the lower mounts (typical for any large rad) -Plug the hydrofan sensor hole with a bolt -Make lower mounts for fan shroud -Make lower mount for aux fan

IIRC the shorter cold start injectors belong to the 7MGE

Seriously?! Do the different vent modes switch properly? If it sounds like the blower motor is running at the proper speed/changing with different settings I would pull the blower motor and check for debris blocking the evap. Not uncommon to find a bunch of crap in there blocking airflow.

Not sure what you mean, did you not use the stock bung?

Pull all the allen plugs on the crank and clean out the galleys with a good bore brush and solvent. And definitely have that crank pin inspected it may be damaged again from the knock.

Great, that's what I needed to know, thanks mecevans. Do you remember off hand what the size of the bung is for the pan? My pan is at the machine shop right now.

Pressure test the cooling system, you probably have a hose leaking somewhere at the back of the head.

hahaha

Yeah, I'm pretty sure that the stock drain in the pan is above the oil level in the pan, not positive though.

Just wondering if anybody has had success with draining their turbo into the stock oil cooler return location on the pan? Did some searching and some people thought it was too low in the pan, others said it was fine. I am using an NA block for my build, so I won't have the stock drain location...

Damn that must have been DUMPING oil..

Great! What was it?

Another concern I have is this...In the summer, my coolant temps can get as high as 220-225 when in a lot of heat and AC going at low speed/idle, then after I take off, and clutch fan speed increases airflow, the temperature comes down a bit, maybe to 200 or 210. In doing this, hasn't the...

Pic thanks to IJ. Anything circled is a potential spot for oil to leak.

Thanks for the link! I think a couple of these people were also in Food Inc. but it's been a while since I watched it. Scary stuff, hard to fathom how we ever allowed it to get to this point, and allow it to continue this way.

There is a pipe plug that goes in right around that area, it seals off the oil galley, so it could be leaking oil there. Another potential spot is the oil dipstick tube (has an o ring in there). I'm assuming this is a 7mgte?

Are those the only two things on the entire cluster not working? There's nothing really in common between the water temp and tachometer looking at the diagrams. First thing I would do is make sure all the connections behind the cluster are clipped in all the way and tight.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?124001-cps-wiring-order http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?48404-CPS-wiring http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?103272-cps-wire-colors. Hope that helps.