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Pretty sure you know the answer here. How do the journals look? I would be looking for a head.

what was in there?

Welcome. Try some punctuation, your post is maddening to read.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-40ASjXS8Y

Sounds like you have got it down to me. Welcome. Got any pics of your projects.

The port on the throttle body will not do for a boost gauge. try the ine that comes off the rear of the intake manifold near the brake booster line (the line for the stock boost gauge and heater vsv, cruse etc.)

Considering the noise goes away in fourth gear (guessing there is too much going on in the drive train to hear the noise in first) i would guess transmission problem (IE countershaft problem). How do you know the noise is coming from the rear end?

well i decided to go with this http://www.sourceautomotive.biz/shop/products/7_8_High_Temp_Silicone_Hose-110-48.html thanks for all the input guys.

can anyone confirm this how long have you been running the heater hose? thats my fear with using heater hose. i am keeping the twins for the time being and i am sure Toyota has a replacement, does anyone have the part number for the 1j or the 2j?

There are maybe a few reasons that the car did not run in the first place, allot of which may not be solved with a rebuild. You are getting ahead of yourself thinking going turbo swap, when the car doesn't evin run. If you want boost, a complete swap will be the the easiest way to do so...

I am working on getting my 1j ready for install, and need to replace the hardened turbo oil drain soft lines. It looks like bulk hose will do, and i was thinking trans cooler line but i cant find any big enough. I am assuming that heater hose will not do. So the question is, what kind of...

i would like to the list of interchangeable parts between the 7m and 1j. valve cover gaskets, and grommets. this is a very helpful page, will someone please clean it up? There is far too much waste here.

various components and comp outputs can be tested in the diag port. i think i saw a scanner that plugged into it before, but it is usually used with a jumper, volt meter or oscilloscope. this is how to pull codes. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=23

i am in need of valve cover gaskets for a 1jz. Id like the toyota part number. thanks. What are the valve clearances supposed to be? Also i ordered two o-rings, for the oil filter housing, for a 95tt. not sure if they are going to fit. anyone else try these?

The one with the banjo bolt either needs to be tighter, or the crush washers replaced. If it has a hose and clamps you need, an new hose and clamps. When you pull the plug wires, are you grounding the ignition wire so the companion cyl will still get spark? this is a tricky test on waste...

So you have never sen boost. what was the condition of the car when you bought the it (apparently not running)? Any mods other than what you have done? Can you take a pic of the area between the turbo and the air filter (basically the whole exhaust side)? It would help to see pics of your...

it sucks to think that if i rolled up to this thing on the streets, it would likely whoop my ass. So is it just a "lats try that" toy? Either way fun to see. But why?

What did you do to solve the original problem?

so you have no tune on the new system. i am assuming you did not pay Arron to tune the new ecu. standalone ecu's dont tune themselves. if you are not going to do it yourself, then you need to take to someone to tune it. or did Aaron say it cant be tuned due to the wiring?

If your turbo compressor housing is somehow cracked then you have a problem, no need to perform a test to bypass an obvious issue. You should be able to figure out where the air is going, and if it is supposed to go there. Good f'ing call my friend. this would be the best test as long as you...