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look here http://www.maftpro.com/

a few things that i can think of that i don't see listed front half of a 5sp drive shaft 5sp clutch pedal assy 5sp brake pedal assy shifter assy modification to neutral safety switch (needed if you want to start the car, with the starter) mods for reverse lights (not necessarily "needed")

good call. 5v reference in correction you should see APROX 5v and 0v i should have caught that. sorry for the misinformation.

take volt meter. put neg lad to ground. put pos lead to IDL wire (at TPS or ECU does not matter, unless you suspect a damaged wire). what are the values, (everything pluged in, ignition on, i prefer motor not running) closed throttle.......... open throttle........... you should see 12v and...

the vsv's under the manifold are likely not your no start problem. You cant find anything to plug into the tps? do i understand this right? when was the car last running, did you just do a HG?

Explain what steps you took, that showed the injectors do not "pop". Are they getting signal but not opening? Are you having a no start problem, a dead cylinder. a little more info is needed.

if your 1jz was an auto, how did you bypass the neutral safety switch? If his is the case and the NSS is permanently bypassed then the ECU always thinks the car is in neutral, thus not allowing cruse controll. Now the speed sensor, not sure. hopefully someone can chime in. my guess would be you...

if you do indeed hear the starter turning over (do you hear an electric motor noise, or a clicking noise?) (are the accessory belts turning, while cranking?) i don't think we are on the right track here. most Toyota starters do not start to spin until they are fully extended (into the flywheel...

i love these motors. its not uncommon for them to go 400k+ miles, the valves never seem to need adjustment. the only common failure i see, is that EGR tube behind the right head cranks, causing a very hard to get to exhaust leak. anyone else seen this on their swapped motors?

why do they function weird? please explain.

What JDM car had: 1JZgte rear sump oil pan clutch fan i think thats enough to tell what car, i just dont know which one

yes you have to ruin the seal to get it off. The trick is not putting a mark on any of the surfaces while doing so. There are a million ways to do it, you will just have to figure out your style. The worst thing you can do while removing a seal is scratching/marking the crankshaft or camshaft.

That was pretty good. Its interesting to think the the common driver does not know how to stop their vehicle when something does not goes as planed. There is still an issue that Toyota needs to deal with. I am interested to see how Toyota is going to repair, and recover from this.

It is definitely not easy. in fact there is nothing easy about it. If your going to do it yourself get a new or rebuilt unit (rebuilding these units is something re-builders, often mess up. ie leak right away or soon after install). your going to want a warranty so buy local. Getting the...

this is what you need, this is the cheapest you will find http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96558

please explain, vacuum to the turbo? also in a previous post of mine regarding testing valve guide seals. i noted to crack the throttle 2-3 times. from your reply we had a misunderstanding. what i meant was.... slightly open the throttle, just enough to get it to 3-4k rpm and immediately let...

25 and\or 26 since there are no codes avail for cat efficiency (according to alldata) you cant just delete something without ill efects

Welcome, tell us more about your sup, does it run, is it stock, is it turbo, amd most of all can we see some pics? if you already haven't noticed you just got yourself a new addiction. there is an infinite amount of information here (and infinite amounts of opinions, be sure to sort through...

you can tell if your car is a CA model by looking at the under hood emissions label. somewhere in the paragraph that starts with "This vehicle conforms to". If the word "California" is anywhere in there, you have a CA car and yes if you have a missing O2 sensor, it will set a code. no doubt...

just as i thought, you have just created a constant (and fairly large) vacuum\boost leak. This line does not go the the rack. it is originally used to raise the idle momentarily to compensate for the load put on the motor from the PS pump creating pressure to turn the wheels. if you don't want...