start with a simple search. All i typed in was "2jz* swap" and there were tons of threads with info on the swap
start here http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?66984-2JZGTE-MKIII-Swap-Info&highlight=2jz*+swap
you have come to the right place for information.
i noticed that the...
you are not testing for boost leaks properly, back to square one
if you hear air rushing in during the boost leak test dont you think that that air must be going somewhere (ie escaping somewhere)?
the pcv lines have nothing to do with the pressure circuit. so they should not need to be blocked...
once you get the cluster out you will notice the spedo is driven by a cable, and should work if you have one of these pluged into the rear of the trans
once you have all the screws out of the cluster, it is still kinda held in there by the speedo cable, just wiggle and pull. other than that...
All i can figure from your brief description would be tps issue. try following the following checks to confirm, and post the results
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=101
if youi buy new it will come with instructions. they are all different.
usually you will need these electrical connections
12v constant
12v switched with ignition
ground
Then just install sender, mount gauge, run wires.
Where are you going to put it?
Are we talking about illuminating mechanical gauges?
While these are all needed inputs for gauges, is this an acceptable source for powering the gauges (other than just illumination)?
There would be no problems powering the gauges through the dim circuit?
Its easiest to get to them with the intake mani off. That does make it hard for testing though. Impossible to test with out an oscilloscope, in running condition.
Does the light come on every tome the rpms get above 2500? if not you have an intermittant problem (evin harder to track down)
This...
the gte oil pressure sender is made to send signal to a oil pressure gauge, not a light.
will the sender from your original motor fit into the pressure port on the gte?
You have got to be kidding me. Where the f*&% did you come up with that?
To the OP your "no heat" issue is definitely has something to do with the heater control valve. Either it is not getting signal, or is not opening, with signal.
when your car is running next, mess with the valve on the...
that is not a stock wire, if you want to know what it does you'll have to do a little research (under your hood)
1. open up the loom and see what wire it goes to,
2. the connection inside the loom: Is the factory wire taped into, or cut and extended (replaced) with the solid yellow wire
its...
How does the water get past the closed t-stat? although i could see it working well if you have a stuck open t-stat.
This also creates allot of waste coolant to get rid of (which i am guessing you are not disposing of properly).
no the hose at the lower passenger side of the rad is the lower rad hose. this is not the one being referred to.
You are looking for the heater hose (the hoses that bring coolant into the cabin for heat). if you look at the link, the thing at the top of the page is your heater valve, and is...
your car does not have an idle adjustment screw. Whatever you are turning, your not supposed too.
what faces the front of the car that should be closed? pics?
PNP it will not be, as it never is.
these questions i can not see in the posting.
does it have rear sump oil pan
clutch fan
do you have round motor mounts
1jz trans setup
Either way the wiring harness will definitely need to be extensively modified (look up http://www.phoenixtuning.com/)...
What is up with the distrust of all mechanics , and only trusting Toyota mechanics? (PS. they are going to use stock HG torque specs and gasket)
A slight BHG can be very hard to diagnose. What you have is a very serious cooling system problem (easy to diagnose when it gets to this point). Any...
Toyota is going to be the only place to get it pre-molded. If you already tried Toyota, then there is a part miscommunication, as it is still available.
now you know why your "parking brake" is not a "slowing down in a parking lot, brake".
I normal conditions your e-brake should never slip (ie being applied as a "brake"), therefore never wear out.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.