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Right on, yah she'll drop once she warms up, Good work man, sounds good!

I agree, But I take it that is cold right? Too high isn't always a good thing, but I'm sure jdub will chime in, and I hope he does. What adapter and size lines you running, and fittings? Actually what is your whole setup?

http://cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=60 Was that the only code? Im not sure if that would cause the issue your having. Someone else may have some insight. But seeing as you've tried 5 ecu's, I'd say you can eliminate that, and 4 AFM's I'd say you can eliminate the...

I don't know why they say that, don't worry car does not have to be running. Just the fact that you say it comes on with key on/engine off but you can't check them seems odd.

Check for codes. Check for spark. Check for fuel.

If you cant get a solid binking light when your trying to check codes, I would assume thats a problem. Not to be a ass, but your sure your jumping the right terminals? E1 and TE1?

Yah I hear yah, you'd figure the throttle plate should go completly flat, did you try and see how far it opens by hand compared to someone pushing the gas pedal down? Also do the same thing but use a multi meter on your TPS(I use my maft pro) and see what voltage you get with both. Anyways...

How did you fix it, so others with the same problem have a idea of how to fix theres. If you want just stock boost, like SupraCorwin said, run uninterupted hose from the WG actuator to the pressure port(On the compressor outlet on the CT-26)

No worries man, I agree Toyota did a great job on there service manuals. NewWestSupras I gotta disagree with you on that one, if your planning on doing a rebuild I highly sugest doing it before a failure. When a engine fails it can cause damage to engine parts that could of been reused. IMO

This Then this if you answer no, sounds like might. http://cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=29 If you can't check your engine codes your shooting in the dark..

EGR wont have any effect on idle.

I wasn't talking to you, but you should be listening...

Poor Car:nono:

:3d_frown: Why did Toyota put them there? Ask that question before you fuck with shit. Put them back! EGR saves you fuel and your engine, AND its good for the enviroment. Also put the lines back on for your charcoal canister(water neck lines) Why do people feel the need to remove this stuff...

The one at the bottom of that page is for the stock 7M GTE setup, I have the 1st one(top of page) for my 7M-GE-T and its perfect setup. If you allready have the flange and know where the drain is gonna be...do you know how to use a tape measure?

And he does a good job;) It's also fully adjustable so no matter your height or size you can get it just right. I love mine, it is "notchy" but you have perfect leverage and have not missed a shift when racing. It is the only one I've used, so I have no comparison just so you know.

Or RTFM...

http://www.rabidchimp.com/mk2sup_rcp_ct26oillines.htm

::focl:: Priceless I do stupid shit like that at work sometimes...you never hear from it, but someone like you gets it down the line haha:) No harm no fowl. Although I dont weld it, that could promote rust/cracks. Running super rich indicates a leak post turbo. Just so everyone is...

The hose is prolly loosing its elasticity over time, or have your recently increased your boost pressure? You could try spraying some brake clean on the inside to make it dry and clean, and same on the nipple so its also dry and clean, then use some tie wraps/clamps.