Because its a switched 12V? So does the Maft, hell, I got my boost gauge, and AFR gauge on it too, with no ill effect. Not saying its the proper thing but it works.
Your problem is quite simple, check for a open in the circuit.
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No coment.
True, I only want one because I can't wait for the FFIM that Lipp(IIRC) is putting out and don't want the hassel of installing one on it. I don't CARE how my engine bay looks, can't see it while I'm driving.
Wish I had the pic of Michael Jackson eating popcorn.
Don't do it, there's no gain unless you have a "JDM" ECU which compensates for the lack of rich exhaust gasses.
I'm assuming the spring rate of those are quite stiffer correct? So the general force(?) to over come that is gonna make more of a difference than the few grams your loosing in valve mass. But with supporting mods I TOTALLY agree.
Thanks, and trust when I finally build a motor I wont be going...
Nuts are prolly stripped.
As for the DP rayall01 pointed out, I have that one and unless your a do it yourself her I would advise the BIC version. The flange wasn't true on mine(still sealed thouh:biglaugh:), it didn't quite mate to my turbo, and my first run I hit 15psi(stock WG Spring)...
I was told the pre 89 7MGTE ECU's wont throw a engine code with the stock o2 unplugged(heater circuit code IIRC). My car doesn't throw the code, same setup as you, maftpro 3 bar, pre 89..., I always run with it unplugged to force open loop.
But on that note, I have gotten it once...:dunno...
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