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Well, then it sounds like your LSD has packed it in...Providing you have a clutch-type diff and not one of those spendy Torsen/helical diffs...or even a LSD at all.

I used it on both. It is even recommended by eastwood to use it on plastic despite the fact that it is metal polish. I was really surprised at how well the black trim came out considering what it looked like before. That isn't my garage either...It is at my grandparents where we're storing...

Autosol polish from eastwood http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1018&itemType=PRODUCT

a couple more pics. here's the car as it currently sits - rear trim will be going on shortly. An hour and a tube of eastwood metal polish got me this: and this (for 250k km and almost 20 years in the sun, these look amazing)

sorry...i should have thrown in something to indicate the scale. They are the mounting hardware for the mk4 rear brakes. It is nice having access to a machine shop with guys who do good work (and work for beer:))

you are comparing a 3 liter turbo engine to a couple of 2.4 liter 4 bangers, of course you are going to get shittier mileage. Quit bitching about fuel prices as well - I just filled up my dd for $1.09/litre of premium. $3.50/gal is equivalent to 0.93/litre, and I live at the source of the oil...

I've finally started to make some progress as of late. I've done some boring things including re-assembling the sport roof, installing the rear bumper, and polishing my tail lights. I think I have most of the parts I need from Toyota so once it warms up a little (it has been sub -25 for the...

If you wanted a 7m with decent reliability for reasonably cheap, find one with a bottom end that hasn't been run to shit and put in a metal head gasket with arp studs/bolts (with the appropriate machining on the block and head) and you should have no problems running up to 350-400 at the wheels...

4k sounds pretty good for a paint job that is guaranteed against peeling and sun fade. It cost around 5500 to have extensive rust repair, 2x rear quarter replacement and paint done to my car without any guarantees or anything.

sand, sand blast, use a rust dissolving chemical, use a rust converting chemical, then use bondo. Do not just sand and bondo. See www.eastwoodco.com for some solutions to rust.

uh...not really.

why not upgrade for something that is far easier to disassemble?

Or, you could put in a braided stainless hose. This cost less than $45 bucks. (it is a -6 to 1/4 npt elbow threaded into the a hole drilled where the hardline used to pass through. I bored the NPT end of the fitting and brazed the old hard line into the elbow.

On the actual failed part, how far did the fatigue crack propagate before the remaining portion failed?

check this post, it is a kickass install of prosport 60mm gauges. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=711707&postcount=348

did you remove the bolts on the upper side of the front main air duct (same orientation as those bolts above the fog lights) if not, there's your problem!

Have a look at this picture to figure out what you are missing:

Anybody know the thread size of the bolts that fasten the rear calipers to the hub carrier assembly? I've got some drilling and tapping to do... Adam

sorry...my e-sarcasm is a bit, uh...lacking.:sarcasm:

I'm glad everyone calmed down...it was about to get ugly there for a while.