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i called them yesterday just out of curiousity to see what they would offer. told them i had about 550tq (just to give them a number) and they promptly said their kit would not hold that kind of power, and gave me the pricelist for their full act kit. it seems that they are atleast honest...

are you doing any racing with them, or just the ocassional spirited driving?

figured as much IJ, they're only $40/set lol

since this is a bearing thread... what about those ACL bearings

takes an hour to change my stock filter, because you have to remove the tire, splash guard and get to the filter up inside the fenderwell. a cai is actually easier to clean than the stock, because you can remove the driver's side headlight and remove the filter that way

<searches youtube and streetfire frantically> please no one else suggest anything, i'm getting tired already :biglaugh:

<searches google images frantically>

i haven't been around long, but Ij has given me alot of good avice in pm's. although i usaully don't like to hear it because it ends up being more expensive than i hoped for, if possible i will do as he suggests. this is all you need to make 1000hp on a dyno, please enure everyone is behind...

i was thinking that the maft-pro would only allow the system to run a maf setup. clearly i was wrong on that. maybe i can get educated a bit if some wouldn't care to enlighten me? engine itself and fuel system i have covered running maft pro something like this kit...

yeah man, 500 is as high as i want to go, i'm not looking to build some monster that will do a 100mph burnout and outrun a busa. what electronics do you think i would need to run the engine at that level?

500 whp, if i have to spray it to do so i will. what size turbo.. who knows, i'll have to get suggestions on that part. i understand totally that the standalone would work better, but what electronics would i need for someone to tune this thing, with a standalone out of the question. the...

just ordered a set of the comp cams springs... $73 with 2 day shipping http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CC&Category_Code=SPRNGSI

would i be better off to just forget the ffim, stick with the stock intake manifold, stock location (but upgraded of course) and go with the standalone?

yes, i understand fully the standalone is lightyears better. it's also alot more expensive, that system cost more than i paid for the car...

i won't be tuning anything

preface <i don't claim to, or know too much about engine control systems> i was looking at that emanage ultimate system and it said in the advertisement that you can remove the factory air metering system. does that mean that it is just replaced with a maf system? if possible please...

what about hookups for factory options? like csi

that's a good price

don't think normal round exhaust.. oval piping FTW ;) http://www.ovalexhaust.com/store/home.php?cat=8 4" oval is only 2 3/4" tall by 4 3/8" wide. so that's a 4" pipe area at less than a 3" round pipe height. they have everything to complete the exhaust, and i will be possibly using this...

i think you can get the cometic kit for $120ish