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instead of heating up the bolts with a torch, you could always take the car for a quick rip...if it comes down to it.

so how are things coming?

you can have one added to the bic pipe at the time of purchase. I did.

yeah, thats the only real issue I'm seeing here:burnout:

damn it! If only I would have seen this a few months ago... oh well, there is no way in hell I'm swapping out the filter I just installed.

from page BR7 of the TSRM "begin bleeding air from brake or wheel cylinder with longest hydraulic line" next comment: "repeat for each wheel". It is safe to assume you'd want to bleed the cylinder with the next longest line. If you look at the lines, the brake tube to the back travels down...

yeah, when doing the brake pump method, it isn't possible to do it by yourself. I was on the brake pedal, and my dad was on the bleeder screw. open screw-push pedal-close screw-release pedal. Any other way (aside from a vacuum bleeder) and you get air in the system.

wrong! I just filled and bled my system last night, so I'm fresh off doing this. The correct order, for ABS equipped cars is right rear, left rear, left front, right front. If you've got multi-piston calipers, bleed the outer cylinders first, followed by the inner.

As of last night, the car now has functioning brakes. Bleeding from dry was not fun...especially without a vacuum bleeder. No, I did not take any pictures of the full reservoir.

POR-15 is fantastic stuff. good choice.

Lol, I was just quoting what was on the box.....thats my engine oil cooler - you can see my rebuilt R154 a few pages back - no automatic in this car.

here are a couple of recent pics of my progress. The only thing really holding me up from assembling the interior is the lock cylinder set I am waiting on (apparently still on the boat from japan) yep, those are new doorjam valves and part of the oil system...I got my bypass and conventional...

:runaway:

Nutshell - Alice in Chains

stock pistons are cast, not forged.

the standard walbro

the only issue might be related to expansion/contraction of the piston, but I doubt 40 degrees will make much of a difference. Give the car an extra minute to warm up and there is no issue. Other than that, forged pistons are generally more ductile than cast, which is a big plus. Go with the...

lifting with the knees....j/k. I assembled both subframes on the workbench and went from there (of course I had my old man there to help me)

yep, that falls under the category of "work smarter, not harder"

I thought those seemed pretty heavy when lifting them off the workbench...