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I haven't had my car on the road since 2004...so I can sympathize. Put it on the backburner, do a little work on it here and there, and start driving it again when your interest comes back (there is a good chance it will).

turn the ignition to on, and jumper +B and Fp. If you hear the fuel pump and can hear fuel passing through the return line, the pump isn't your problem.

if you torque the bolt properly, using a suitable lubricant, the preload achieved through tightening the bolt will keep the bolt from backing off. The cleanliness of the threads on the bolt and in the crank are essential to attain adequate preload (this may be why some have more success using...

I agree with figgie, you would be extremely hard pressed to tuck any of the main harness wires. The only thing you could really do is to run the harness behind the firewall and have it pop out on the left side of the car, but this would require the removal of the dash and assorted components...

Probably the majority of members on this board... I run the same setup as you, and have never had problems with excessive crankcase pressure. Have you actually verified that your PCV system is unobstructed and working correctly yet, or are you just assuming?

use a high-torque pneumatic impact wrench. A 600 lb-ft mac impact gun removed my pulley bolt on the engine stand...without securing the crank...

you want vacuum to evacuate the crankcase vapors (which are generally quite corrosive). This is the whole "positive" part in the acronym PCV.

then something is restricting the crankcase from venting... check the pipe connecting the head and block for blockage as well as the rest of the PCV system

I'm liking the oil pan...wrinkle powder coating?

yep, that layer of nickel is there to permit adhesion of the chrome layer. All you can really do now is keep sanding, there really isn't any practical (safe) chemical that will remove the chrome.

is it anodizing or chrome? the two are not at all the same.

NPT/NPS, M10x1, BSP/BSPT, and SAE (ex. 3/4 x 16) are all different thread forms, and generally incompatible with one another. the block female threads were harsh on the adapter because the threads did not match. Properly matched threads should never be harsh to engage or tighten (with the...

well, you could always do it the right way and get a new wheel well installed (see thread in signature) chances are your passenger side is pretty rusty as well.

with the conditions i've seen some various supras in lately, I'm not surprised people are getting shit mileage (eg. unhooked sensors, vacuum lines, etc)

because gas is $4 a gallon and people are trying to look for cheap, half-assed ways to save on fuel. (as opposed to driving like a sane person or *gasp* buying a more efficient vehicle)

in my experience, the aftermarket lines fit like shit. I'd go with a toyota line to avoid the pain in the ass of having to bend and tweak the replacement.

i think trial and error may be a better way for you to learn than asking questions....as the answers given in this thread are extremely simple to understand.

no carpet, but i did get the amp, and it is mint (too bad I'm not going to be using it) I'll get pictures of the inside of the sub box next week. The frames of the subs require a little bit of modification to fit the box, but it is just some trimming of the metal mounting flange, so it won't...

is the rust through the panel? is there any rust holes inside the inner fender well? If both of these are a yes, you would want to have the rust cut out and replacement panels welded in place.

lol....no worries. I spent ~600 on two used rear quarter panels. Buying new from the dealer would have been $650/side.