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Never put water under your hood again unless you filling up the overflow bottle. Fix your coolant issues once you've got everything dry, this is what caused this to happen in the first place. New radiator cap, replace all old coolant hoses. You're lucky you caught the coolant leak in time...

Do it yourself. JetJock made a thread on how to do on MKIIItech, it takes around 50mL of silicone differential fluid from an RC car (again, check his thread for the exact weight you will need), a good brand to buy would be Mugen, and can be had on ebay for less than 10 bucks.

Heh, I actually got it from too_stand, who may not live too far from you, I'm not sure exactly where independence is, but he lives about 2 hours from Louisville, heading east.

By looking at the video and listening to it I'd say power over.

I'd say so ;). We sutherners don't get them thar fancy shmanshy werds yur sayin' Kyle......:biglaugh:

I'd say so ;). What size are the stock ARP's in the eagle rods John? Haven't some people mentioned them being the weak point in the rod's setup, and upgrading to a larger size would cure the problem?

Holy shit, the cams are in finally!

You will not be able to tell a difference really unless you put an EGT probe in your exhaust and check the temps without the EGR, then with it. You'd be surprised by how much the EGR actually helps cool the exhaust. Put the EGR back on.

LC-1 with the XD-16, or the LM-1 ;)

Cheap fix and you'll never have to worry about for another 15 years. Fan shroud... ~45.00. 10 blade fan... ~??.?? check. Re build fan clutch... ~10.00 yep, check. Making sure you have the engine undertray... priceless.

Very interested pending price of piston rings and it has a relatively long skirt length, the weight's not that much of an issue, I'd prefer a little more meat to them myself ;).

I got a near mint one for around 80.00, I consider it a good deal since they are so damn hard to find anymore...

Bad part is, he couldn't even spell your name right.

You're gonna have to make you own buddy, sorry.

Ok, I sent a message to the seller of this clutch kit and it goes something like this: Here is the reply I just got back from him, you'll get a kick out of this Aaron ;):

Why would someone even have a reason to mess with the wiring on the CPS unless it needed to be repaired because the wire was exposed?

Well that's a new one to me....

It's a matter of opinon really. There no "right" way that everyone will agree on. It's either: Balls to the walls after the engine oil is up to operating temps, and stay on it like that it bursts (giving time to cool down) for the first 20 miles, oil change, easy driving for about another...

Alright fuckers quit name calling ;).

Double post FTL...