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pretty effective use of the fundamentals of gas compression. Lots of boost with a relatively low compressor speed. This has been done on diesels in the past with excellent results.

heh, no charts for us. thats just one of the many reasons for my subpar performance in math.

At work, I rock the TI83 like there is no tomorrow. 98% of what I learned in my 6 university math classes (4 of which were calculus, no calculators allowed) i have forgotten; however, I rarely feel the need to determine the cosine of an angle without a calculator.

if you're going to the junkyard, you might want to target the automatic cars.

if using anti-seize, oil, or any other compound on the threads, adjust your torque accordingly to maintain the appropriate preload. (i.e. when using a lubricant, less torque is required to achieve the desired preload vs. dry threads)

fuck, I will NEVER give that company a dime of my money...especially after seeing that.

champion toyota. unless you have a Californian-spec car, they are still available for around $425

the process is called extrude honing. I my semi-qualified opinion, when it comes to our stock exhaust manifold, all you really want to do is get rid of the lumps formed by the heat shield studs and smooth the inner surfaces of the manifold. Any significant enlargement of the tubes will reduce...

just so you don't put too much faith in the stock gauge, it is extremely insensitive to temperature variation around operating temps.

you can still buy them new in most OEM colours from toyota.

where's the fun in that?

IIRC, I bought mine in spring of '03, and have been restoring it since 2006.

picked up an intercooler from them a year ago and it is a top quality piece. I'd expect the same from their manifolds. Lifetime warranty doesn't hurt either.

if you are rusted to the point where you have gaping holes, cutting/welding is really your only option. Depending on the severity of the rust, expect somewhere in the neighborhood of 5K for a proper job (not including re-spray)

Moving your oil filter relocation might be your solution...there is plenty of space in front of the passenger side wheel well. I'm pretty sure I've got some pictures of my relocation in my build thread (can't see the pics at work unfortunately). I'm not sure you can get a bigger filter...

either go to the junkyards, hit up the for sale section, or contact your local toyota dealer.

I picked up a ratcheting crimper with f-crimp jaws from a place called del city to do my metripack connectors as well as my oem sumitomos. Makes a decent crimp when not crimping the rubber seal, but i have yet to try crimping over the rubber seal. I have heard from several sources that it is...

If you look in the owners manuals of most new cars, you will see that the reccomended OCI is often upwards of 8000 km (5000 miles) for the SEVERE service condition. I find this funny as the local dealer, despite having the factory recommended service intervals literaly written on the wall, will...

did you happen to actually read this thread? It is there...

Have a look at the underside of your car in the passenger area for holes. A rock hopping up and dinging your floorpan might have turned into a hole over time.