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I looked there -- maybe I'm missing something???

Motor was fine, first thing I did was install a wideband and monitor the A/F ratios...then I did a head bolt retorque with a shitty torque wrench 5yrs ago. Fast forward to about 3-1/2yrs ago, driving from CA to CO...and just starting up Baker Grade toward Vegas and the motor overheats....ended...

Bump....Bueller...?

Cinched up my exhaust at the test pipe, mounted and ran the wires for the wideband and the EBC into the cabin, bolted down valve covers, filled with oil, and primed oil system....then found a leak (turned out to be my turbo's oil feed line). Made an extension pigtail for my TPS connector and...

For reference, I was running about 14lbs before I hit fuel cut...and that was on the janky setup that the previous owner used...i.e., stock afm, injectors, and fuel pump. He said he had the MBC set for 10lbs, but once I ran the boost gauge line properly, I was seeing about 14lbs. If it hit...

Update: One thing I noticed when troubleshooting was that the 1156 bulbs wouldn't even turn on when I hit the turn signals....so I remembered, have to plug in the hazard switch. So now they blink for turn signals and hazards, but still not as parking lights, which leads me to ask this -- I...

Go with the Turbonetics -- when I bought my car, the previous owner put on a TO4E 60-1 and even with the half-assed cobbled mods they did to it, the thing pulled like a freight train at 3/4 throttle....right up to fuel cut. LOL! I can't even imagine what this car's gonna feel like when I fire...

I remember reading this thread a few years ago and was gonna do this mod instead of installing the recirc fitting into my SSQV... Main reason being, the line would be about 6ft long now that my BOV is on the driver's side of the car...lol.

Hmmm....I'm gonna jump in this as I've got a similar issue -- when I parked the car due to a roached motor 3-1/2yrs ago, all fogs, marker lights, etc were working -- just reconnected the battery tonight to verify if the 194s were working since the glass looked tinted. One thing I noticed was...

Actually, they're different -- the radiator I pulled from my car when it went down wasn't a 'turbo' radiator. I remember when I ordered a new radiator cap from the dealer, the cap I got was listed for my car (91 turbo), but didn't fit my radiator. Come to find out, I needed a cap for a...

Your best bet will probably be car-part.com or your local wrecking yard (if they have any supras). Also, check in the parts for sale section on here. Other than that, a quick google search shows a couple for about $85 on partstrain.com, and Rockauto has one for $90. Seems like that's about...

So I discovered yesterday that I have a bit of an issue -- with my FFIM and the linkage on the inside (as well as the wiring harness), I have no room to reinstall the hose that runs from the Driver's Side VC to the side of the block. My question is, can I use a different hose that size instead...

Moved mine to the pass fender, right on the front edge of the wheel well.

Saturday and Yesterday/Last Night -- Finished battery relocation, reinstalled fuel tank, reinstalled clutch line and bled clutch, put the bolts back into the nose panel (took them out by mistake when I yanked the motor), put the test pipe on the downpipe and dropped into place, reinstalled lower...

Awesome, thanks guys! Now, next question -- does it have to be the intake, or can I bolt 'em to the block itself?

Hey guys, still inching toward the finish on my rebuild, and was wondering if someone could help me out. The pic below shows a bundle of wires on a ring terminal; my problem is, after almost 4yrs of the car being down, I don't remember where they bolt to. Judging by how they've formed, I'm...

Degree'd cams (what a PITA!!!), dropped tank and drained old fuel, installed new fuel pump, finished mounting battery box and mounted battery...then charged battery...lol. Tomorrow -- finish battery relocation (drilling and wire running), reinstall fuel tank, maybe even get turbo and downpipe...

Updated videos - accidentally pressed the 'stop' button before I was finished, so the 2nd video in this post is the tail end of the process. http://youtu.be/3hu3YCdTmdM http://youtu.be/e0K0Y20uRdM

Update: I removed the beveled tip from the dial indicator and have it sitting on the edge of the bucket. I went back and used the piston stop to get a definite and accurate measure of TDC (rather than guessing by looking at the keyway on the crank pin), and I also have the dial indicator...

All I have is what is supplied in the Summit degree kit (shown in video).