Driveability and tuneability with 1000 cc injectors is a "day and night" difference. No more bubbling and ranging at idle. It is like hooking a vpc up and not putting the s-afc between it and the stock ecu.
Sean
The rewire is very simple a straightforward since all your doing is adding three wires. If anyone needs help I can walk them through it. The biggest thing is making sure the settings in the ecu are right.
To hard on the dyno brakes stopping near 20 consecutive 140 mph pulls. We have a 248 Dynojet with a 4 ft diameter drum and they don't have really big brake shoes on them.
First off I would like to say thanks for all the comments from everyone.
Second, I would also like to say that I don't want to make this seem like all you have to do is throw a bunch of fuel and alot of boost at a 7m and it will make big numbers and it is as easy as that. There was alot of...
Agreed!
Piggybacks have there place, but the differences you can make with full control over everything is amazing, such as 30 rwtq with the addition of 1 degree of timing.
I will more than likely build a forged internal engine before trying to run this set up at these power levels at the track.I will go to the local track and goof around at 18 psi which is what I run on the street(514rwhp/402 rwtq) It did an 8.50 @ 91 mph in the 1/8th at 11 psi on street tires...
1. 1000 cc PTE injectors, stock modded fuel rail with dual feeds, A1000 and a Kirban 1000 hp regulator.
2. Journal bearing GT4202( 74.3 mm inducer with a S trim exhaust wheel) with a 1.01 T4 housing.
3. The biggest problem with the AEM was me. The unit can be overwhelming with all it gives you...
The AEM is great once you get a handle on everything that it is capable of doing( I'll let you know when I get a handle on everything it will do!). I run a stock CPS, 3 channel ignitor off of a 95 3000 GT, HKS DLI, stock coils with NGK wires and plugs. Plugs are no#7's gapped at .028"
I run...
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