not hard but not like it's my step fathers ferrari either
i drove between idle and 3k and never redlined in those first 500 miles always let it warm up always let it cool down
but once again didn't have this problem till the 3500 mile oil change
john
so.... let me just start from the begining....
i had it rebuilt, drove it for 500miles, took it back for an oil change....drove it 3000miles and changed the oil myself....when i changed the oil i also swapped out the old soft lines as they were leaking a little bit....
now i don't know...
wow that sucks...i would love to talk to the guy that worked on my car but, a month or two after i had her rebuilt the place was sold or something....all i know is he isn't there and they have a big sign thats been up forever that says under new managment....
hmmm....is it unsafe to 'run' the...
two things...what is that?? different weights when hot and cold??
second the problem has stopped for the time being...i stopped to help some lady jump her car and when i left traffice was all jammed up so i romped on it out of there and not a trace of smoke....drove it easy, normal, a little...
yeah if they charge you anymore than 5 bux, just come back a different day and say your looking for like a CPS or something mundane and put it in your undies!!....hehe ;)
but seriously it should be prettyy cheap and most every mkiii you see will have one
john
about the oil burning problem i have this same thing i could drive it easy all day and never see a trace of smoke
but when i get on it there it is most prodminant when my car blows-off/shifts gears....big puff then clears up
john
the very 1st oil in the car the mech put in and then had be bring it back for a 'change and check up' at 500miles then after the 1st 3500 miles i put moboil 10w-30 but no synthetic yet
john
is there anything that could cause it that does not include a problem with the piston heads or the piston rings.... perhaps in the top end??
when i got the car back i did not have this problem. it drove fine for about 3k miles i'd say there were a few bugs and kinkys to iron out in the 1st...
that i could not tell you...
there are plenty of things i have done and alot of things i'm not scared to try but pulling a motor apart myself with no experience doing it before...
i took it to a shop, i talked to the guy working on my car almost daily but he never got into details such as...
i love seeing auto gauges in cars with 5spds....just like a pre89 car with some noticable only to the trained eye post 89 part..
...it just makes you feel.... good...hehe
john
my engine is about at 4500 miles after a rebuild and the walls were in spect and new rings were installed....is there anything else this could be?????
i spent way to much to have it rebuilt to have to do it again this soon :(
i don't burn anything at idle and normal driving
john
well i tried to splice into the dimmer itself and it dimmed opposite and then i sent for a power wire that feeds the lights on the dash B1 i believe on the center conector and it is all time 12V
i might run a little extra wire and go for the ashtray light[good tip ;)]
i T'd the Vline that...
i was under the impression that everyone used a heat gun to install there lotek pillar pods
i did, i also trimmed about a 1/4 inch off the very bottom end
john
i tried to connect my gauge to the dimmer unit and got an unexpected effect....
as i dimm the console the boost gauge gets brighter and on the extreme bright where i usually keep it the boost gauge is 'off'
why is this, how do i fix it[it is on a constant 12v now]
john
interesting....would this be the only advise you would give me in my situation?? how hard is that to do??
one thing fixed three more breaks....*sigh*
john
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