There are different types of balancing and for a high speed spin balance you need the flywheel and damper. Even though the flywheel is zero balance from the manufacturer, in some cases weight needs to be removed from the flywheel on one side or more to balance the entire assembly. We never...
A cometic 2mm is a 4 layer gasket. It has the two outer layers that contact the head and block, then one very thin inner layer, then one slightly thicker inner layer. If you are not sure, buy a new gasket. Perhaps a hks bead type 3mm gasket maybe a 5 layer, but I am not sure on that.
Yes, it is possible to fix the block, but with the cost and headache of doing so, I would replace the block with a good one everytime. Was the block checked for cracks prior to doing any work on it? That is the first step in any motor build.
For a high speed spin balance you need...
Crank, damper that will be used, flexplate or flywheel that will be used, weight of pistons with rings and pins installed, weight of rods with bearings installed, flexplate or flywheel bolts.
You do not need the pressure plate and clutch in nearly...
That is a waste of time also. Send your "wish" list to each of the vendors and let them price out everything as a package deal. You are wasting your money buying off of someones website. Make a phone call or a few emails directly to the vendor and you can get much better pricing.
My friend Randy who does tractor pulling has a triple turbo compound set up on a v-8 alcohol injected motor with custom pistons that have the entire comb. chamber in the piston. I should drive over and take a pic of that. He runs 100+ psi. Very high dollar set up.
I run all of my nitrous kits off the additional pressure port of the FPR. That is if you have an aftermarket FPR like the aeromotive with two pressure ports.
Nash, if you run a regrind, don't use a thicker shim on top. Place a "make up" shim under the bucket that is the same thickness of the amount of base circle that was removed. Then just continue to use the stock shim on top. A good key to not spit a shim also is to run the cams on the tight side...
Yes, the proper way is to rebuild the motor including machining the crank. Most any rod knock crank I have worked on has needed some work. Simply changing the bearings is a short term bandage.
Yes, don't use loc-tite on the pins. No need for it. Also the factory ones can hydro lock themselves as you tap them in if liquid is in the hole prior.
1000 hp 7m's HAVE been done. So many people posting saying "yes it can be done" when they should be saying "yes it HAS been done" Besides, 1000 hp is the old bench mark. 1300 should be the new mark, and 1500 to be the new record within a year or so.
You have to have some sort of other problem then. There really is no issue with the 6 bolt 6m or 7m cranks not being able to handle power or shock loads. The 4age uses 8 bolts also, but it was not for strenght issues, just a different design.
If you really feel you need a billet crank, try...
IJ is right on with that. If you are just going to lighten the crank, take even amounts of weight off each counter weight going straight in towards the center. This will remove a good bit of weight from the counter weights, but will still leave mass on the outside edge of the counter weight...
Bolts backing out? Worn out holes on the flexplate? Threads in the crank messed up? The converters are self balancing being full of fluid, but it could be off center. In most cases of off center, the transmission input shaft bearing will fail before the flexplate assembly.
The stock manifold has done those numbers before. I know of a certain 7m in a pick-up running about 6-700 hp on the stock manifold. BUT, every stock manifold I have seen running 500 some HP has had extensive work done to them to flow better.
You could have an adaptor fabbed to mate this turbo...
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