so its time to buy fluids for my 1JZ swap... engine/tranny have 72,000km
couple questions re capacities;
Koyo rad - 1 jug of OEM red or 2? and distilled/dionized water
engine oil capacity ? weight? going to run a short term oil change since it has been sitting for a couple years...
so, in this application is the OEM a superior unit for the application?
my kit did not have them, so I used new OEM.. they seem like tough little units...
i always look at it like this;
to get a comparable performing/stylish car in todays new car market your into $50K+++
does owning a $10K-$20k classic car give me life satisfaction?
yes especially when men in minivans look onward with scorn... or when you leave the bank and there is 50+year...
Is that the OEM burgundy paintcode?
did your respray go heavy on the clear? (^6+coats/gal)
it might be the lighting/angle/photo equip, but I don't think I have seem that colour look quite so nice.... they always look faded/beat/ratty....
those images would make for some nice posters....
can't tell from the angle, but it looks like you have both halves of the plug, nice of the seller, just unplug pigtail and plug in the one attached to your chassis...
pretty sure these OEM foglamps are pre89/post89 specific, re; shape and mounting locations.....
EDIT: use the pigtail for the...
^so no fold down rear seats? armrest pass-through?
The 95 - Q45 was like this, probably helps stiffen up the rear structures around the c-pillar/strut towers....
figured out just how bad the ebay 1JZ y-pipe/DP combo really is;
latest issue; either the bend is too tight or the pipe is too short as the DP hits the floor prior to the flanges meeting, i think if I add another flange the 3/8" that it'll drop down should do... more welding...
previous...
seems unlikely... did you drain it or totally clean it out (ie; no oil residue)
there are other ways to lock up the rear;
over tighten axle shafts onto wheel bearings
parking brake jammed up
rear calipers rust seized to rotors
transmission in gear
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