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Boy, I hope not. Here is the pic again of the newer NDC design from japan on the left, vrs the older style from Australia on the right.

We just see alike! And your advice should be taken as the rule because you really don't give an opinion unless it has been tried and true. There really is no threashold. Each make of composite gasket will fail at a different level than the next. Also, it is really not the amount of power...

Have not seen those ACL clevites yet, but lots of fed-mog. Mostly in the undersizes. I posted a pic too a while back of how the difference between the Australian NDC mains and Japan NDC mains differ. Ever since Mahle purchased clevite they have been using mosty the coated japan ndc mains. Whats...

Thanks IJ! The block will look as if it has been glass beaded after it is done, not only on the out side, but the inside too. You remove all the freeze plugs and the shot cleans all inside the water jackets also. Looks like a new casting when done. call anytime you have a question. It is...

Other shops poor work is the best advertisment there is for me. I can not count how many motors I have "finished" for people who's first shop either did not do it right, or could not get it done. And 4-6 weeks is pretty normal for a quality build.

ohh, an actuator. I thought you had an aftermarket wastgate with a removable spring. To truely test an actuator, you need a really acurate air pressure regulator that measures air down to .1 psi and use metered air to pressurize the actuator to see what psi will move it. I have a mechanical fuel...

You can call me at 330-541-1122 if you need a straight answer on anything since your local ohio shops don't want to help you. Personally, I thermal clean my blocks. I also repalce all freeze plugs and oil shaft bearings as std procedure on all blocks. I made my own special toll to install the...

George - I will make you a de-stroke crank if you want one. The malta dragster spins the 7m to nearly 10k rpm with out problems. A stoker crank can be of all different lenghts, so the max rpm of the stroker kit also depends on the lenght of the stroke. Can't lump all stroker kits into one...

To degree the cams you will need the timing events also, not just the specs. If your trying to do a set of stock cams, Toyota already provided timing marks on the gears and backing plate to put you nearly zero. Pin in the center hole.

You need to test the spring's psi in a spring tester to see if it weak. "feel" will not do.

I second the fact that if the block can not be removed from the car then MHG is just not a realistic option.

Clevite is mostly NDC in the std size and some undersize sets are fed-mog. Both are a good bearing. I would not used any other bearing but a clevite in any motor I build. The ndc std size clevite bearing are used in the worlds most powerfull 7m and the bearings look new still after many passes.

Send it to me... Head cam be sent via fedex for pretty cheap.

If your bearing housing bores are out of round it is time for a line bore. After that they will all be the same size. The crank should be re-polished at minimum, if still well enough to not need re-ground to the next undersize. At that point, you would well on your way to just needing an...

The stock clutch will not handle the potential of your set up, keep the power down to 250-285 and you should be ok for a while.

Not sure who's bearing toga is rebadging, but you can't go wrong with the NDC bearings in the clevite boxes.

It has been called power shifting for the last 50 some years, why all the new names for an old way to shave 2 tenths off your 1/4 time?

Yes, the fastener must be cracked loose to re-torque. You only need about a 1/4 of a turn loose. Remember, the fastener must be moving to read the correct torque. Do one at a time in order, do not loosen all of them at once.

Get some copper plugs and gap them to .028 to .032 and watch the sputter go away.

Do it right once. That is all i have to say.