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If your boost has raised as a result of a better flowing downpipe, then yes you may hit boost cut which would show a code 34.

Mine too :) Make sure everything is tit haha

That's a good number. I made 240whp at just under 10psi on a 160 mile motor. Only exhaust and intake.

Wow that looks amazing! I have 10" +25 and people say I won't be able to run 285s. How hard is it to 'pull' our rear fenders?

Hey guys, I am currently running XXR 521 (18x10+25's) with a 265/35 tyre at the back and i'm looking at going 285's. Do you reckon its feasible? I have rolled the guards. Can perhaps roll them a little more. This is the current clearance....

very nice shots and very nice car! :) Just curious, what sort of camera and lens are you using?

I hope all goes well with the motor Jordan! I know the feeling of running out of energy when you pour all you hardwork into a build only for something to screw it all up! Luckily in my case it was an easy fix...

Well done man. Awesome build!

After reading my post I see how I may have come across like a prick. Was not my intentions. I appreciated the help/advice! My mistake was I failed to check the timing once I got the throttle to fully close, something I over looked.

So I thought I'd let everyone know I solved this issue! Had been driving me insane for too long! When I recalibrated the TPS back then, little did I know that it was sticking slightly open when idling and so I went and re-adjusted the throttle stop, and it was all good. I made the mistake of not...

I just grab the old belt tightly and it's usually enough to undo the nuts.

this is a built motor on like 600 miles, can't see how compression would be the culprit, but i'll check anyway. Engine builder has built numerous motors mainly RB's.

Good point. I really don't like to think about compression but ill get it checked :/

well I'm still having this issue with my car. I replaced a couple of silicon joiners that I thought to be a little worse for wear. Still the same problem, hits set boost of 11psi but revs slow, sounds rough and lacks power. I haven't change my plugs or leads for a while, could this have any...

Yes but I also stated that the temp stayed around 65-70 degrees celcius with normal city driving, instead of 82-88...

Exhaust is full 3" turbo back, ECU is stock with the HKS PFC FCON piggybacking off it. Everything else is stock except for the intercooler pipe that runs from the fender to the throttle body, which has a HKS 3000 pipe and piping to match. I never said I expected MORE power from a built motor...

Wouldn't a stuck open thermostat cause the coolant to continue flowing through and have the engine run cooler than operating temp? I had an old worn thermostat that was effectively 'always open' which had my motor taking ages to warm up and hovering around the 65-70 degrees celcius mark....

Took her for a drive to work today, and it hit around 11psi and felt quick. Maybe I'm goin mad and or been expecting too much... Think im gonna get her dynoed to see what she's making.

Compression was kept the same with the right size head gasket. I'm not expecting it to be quicker, it's just that its noticeably slower....it actually feels like its choking.

Cleared the ECU codes and it shows zero codes at the moment. I guess i can just replace some couplers but they where fine/pretty new before removal. Will check for exhaust leaks. Both, I had to re-time the motor cause the shop that rebuilt the head didn't put cam seals in, and I didn't...