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I was looking at one but thats... not encouraging at all. I've been running a 150k mile stock CT at more boost than that for longer than that...

Was it only set for tune at the hi throttle setting? If so, no issues, the bigger turbo at the same or higher boost should just trigger the ECU to run a tick richer. There has to be a leak, either in that line you ran from the manifold to the wg, or a stuck vsv (VERY unlikely) or something...

It's 3/8 BSP. As are all of the threaded sensors on that piece.

I wouldn't touch anything until you understand WHY the lex AFM mod works, and the additional mods you need to go with it. The older articles are some of the better ones, and for someone who actually knew what he was doing with the mod, look for John B Lunsford's (jblmk3) old setup.

Why does everyone seem to think vacuum leaks occur in pre-throttle charge pipes?

How long did that DM turbo last before it 'sploded?

The only way to lose vac like that is from a leak AFTER the throttle plate. IC pipes, wastegate hookup (providing youre still using compressor housing as a feed) and PVC have absolutely nothing to do with vacuum at idle, which should be at least -16in. 15.7:1 A/F is lean however I have seen a...

Start by not touching the "throttle screw".

If it is a BHG, (pretty much certain at this state) its not starting stages. It's already very severe.

The cause is the synchro, the cheapest and fastest solution is to learn how to rev match and double clutch down shifts.

Reverse has no synchronizer, it will grind no matter what if the input/output shaft speed is not matched.

It will be fine. The seal works when the crank is spinning (see the vanes inside?) and it will never see oil that high while the crank is stationary. The seals I've gotten from Toyota are all pre-lubed from the factory.

Well, it took me a try or 2 to get a perfect long term seal from them... so I assume others will simply never get it. LOL I'm not hear to stomp on any tried and true techniques you've got. :)

I'd buy that reasoning if you were so inclined to immediately tear apart your perfectly sealed valve covers after 3 days. It's the nature of the beast for the center-ish ones to be a tad loose as they were the 1st to be tightened. However, you could probably go back again and tighten the outers...

From what I can tell it stemmed from someone reading on ARP's site that friction will reduce (increasing clamping force... not that I think you need that spelled out) each time you torque a fastener, with a sort of plateau at ~5 cycles. Someone read this to be the bolt or stud...

I wish this heat cycle myth would stop propagating.

*shrug* Eventually they'll learn they shouldn't be trying...

To be fair, he looks to be pretty far along, and didn't ask for any help.

air: So, the more drastic heat cycling experienced in the north makes it progress slower? Methinks not. hvy: It's hard to get to? With all the exhaust bits removed? Gimme a break, you're THAT lazy? Seeing that car go from an absolutely mint 90 (91?) to the utter heap-o-junk it is now... they...

Theres this trick little part you can use to get it out called a "drain plug", when you remove it, the coolant comes out! I watched the progression of a BHG on someone elses car for 2-3 years, overheated pretty much every day for at least a year, low coolant, the whole 9. Looked pretty similar.