1 - A very long time, my guess would be the better part of a year you were easily able to tell it was blown. 6 months before that with any attention to detail you'd have noticed.
2 - Why does no one ever drain the coolant before pulling apart their engine?
(Quite fitting you put "stupid" right...
You need to work out how to work with the stock ECU instead of fighting it. Many (most) people on here seem hell bent on fighting it; almost always with inconsistent, engine destroying results.
No worries, I appreciate you trying, no one else has ever even heard of the stuff! I have someone in mind (where I've 1st seen it actually) who may be able to get it.
Thanks again! :)
Got the #2 stat yesterday, checked it again for some kind of bypass/air passage and this one had nothing at all, so perhaps the notch in the last one was a tiny manufacturing defect of some sort... it was so small I could easily believe thats the case.
So, drilled the 1/16in hole and it has...
Nope.
If it is perfectly steady vf then something is wrong. It will be changing constantly except *maybe* at a perfectly flat, perfectly steady cruise.
Ah, I see. NGK say as long as you use a wire gauge (with the little bending tool built in - I also have tiny pliers) you should be fine gapping Iridium.
That ground strap thing was not an Iridium specific rule I had heard. Just in general.
I was under the impression it was an easy way to have the... bendy bit... break off if you gap after running them. No?
They're like <20 miles, so really not much need to clean them. Haven't pulled them to verify, just speculating.
I believe my issue was not gapping the new Iridiums that went in - foolishly thinking the people on the interweb were right that they should not be gapped. Lot's of $$ in plugs down the drain now... :cry:
Ah, gotcha. I don't know how you even got it to run 20-30 deg off! Both head-off repairs I've done were quite picky about starting if the timing was off <10 deg.
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